X2D with tilt shift lens

[GAFvanBaalen]

Hi there,

For me, tilt-shift is important. So I have been researching options that go around on the internet. I finally have been able to make my Schneider Kreuznach 28mm Tilt/Shift f4.5work with my X2d.
Even though the lens has a Nikon adapter, the image circle is large enough to accommodate the X2D's sensor with enough shift and tilt. The biggest problem was finding an adapter that worked. None did. Mostly due to the fact that the inner diameter was too small, so 'hard' vignetting would take place. I managed to adjust the Novoflex N/XD adapter by taking out the inner mechanics (didn't' need the f-stop adjustment), honing out the inner diameter and blackening it out so there wouldn't be any reflection. Now I can finally use it!. It is heavy but I like what comes out of it.
Some vignetting takes place, but nothing unsolvable. I can use 90% of it's shifting capability safely.
The attached photo is an unedited raw image with 90% shifting straight out of the camera (resolution doesn't do it justice).

[JCM-Photos]

Thank you for this nice adapter modification idea, as no current X system adapter works properly with any Nikon F glass due to too small exit diameter.

[GAFvanBaalen]

This is the set-up

[GAFvanBaalen]

This is what I took out in terms of diameter increase

[GAFvanBaalen]

Mid grinding

[JCM-Photos]

I guess this could be done by a mechanic on a lathe ?

[Sandro]

Nice setup!
I went in a differente direction. Pentax 67 lenses with Kipon tilt&shift P67/XD adapter (I use the 45mm and 55mm lenses), PC Super-Angulon 28mm for Nikon with adapter and finally Laowa 20mm Zero D Shift with Nikon/XD adapter (maximum 8mm shift).
I wonder why Hasselbled is not releasing a native t&s lens ...

[JCM-Photos]

The native Hasselblad tilt shift exists for the X system, it's the fabulous HTS used with many compatible H lenses with each H lens giving on X cameras 2 different focal length with HX adapter or HX converter, and all solutions with leaf shutter up tp 1/2000s (with orange dot H lenses)

https://youtu.be/msD4OOEJU-w

[JCM-Photos]

I'self went the cheap simple way, with the M645 Mamiya Sekor C 50mm shift lens on an adapter and electronic shutter.
This lens is extremely sharp with a huge shift range

[JCM-Photos]

hc 300mm x converter 0.8 x HTS  1.4 = 360mm focal lens with tilt on the X1DII for awsome portraits !!!

https://youtu.be/dzU9h1I_uCE

[Michael H. Cothran]

1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.
2. Rogeti makes a beautiful rig for adapting a Canon 24mm TS lens to the X body. It works in conjunction with a Techart adapter. And...as a bonus, the Rogeti mounts to the lens shaft so that the camera body shifts back & forth while the lens remains still on a tripod. This produces more accurate stitching than when one moves the lens.
3. Laowa makes a great 20mm Shift lens (no Tilt) for about half the price of a Nikon or Canon TS lens. A friend owns one, and her images are spectacular. Laowa offers an optional rotating lens mount that also allows the lens to remain still while the camera does the shifting. They make and adapter for the Fuji GFX cameras, and they also mention the X1D in their ads. I'm trying to contact them to verify if there is one available in the XCD mount. But even if not, you could mount their 20mm shift lens with a Canon or Nikon adapter.

[MGrayson]

I just did an interesting test.
1) Shoot 9 frames on tripod with Mamiya 645 50mm/4 Shift lens
2) Shoot 9 frames hand-held with XCD 45

All frames 1/250, f/8, ISO 100. Stitched them both. Perspective corrected, matched colors and contrast.

Verdict:
in the center, the Mamiya was a bit sharper (it *was* on a tripod).
Everywhere else, the XCD 45 stitch had more detail. Sometimes drastically so.

These are 100% crops on 13,000x13,000 pixel images!
XCD 45 on left, Mamiya 50 on right

BTW, I'm not arguing against shift lenses. I loved using a tech camera. This is more a comment on modern optics and 100MP sensors. It's also possible I have a bad copy of the 50, or it doesn't adapt well to the X2D.

[JCM-Photos]

I just did an interesting test.
1) Shoot 9 frames on tripod with Mamiya 645 50mm/4 Shift lens
2) Shoot 9 frames hand-held with XCD 45

All frames 1/250, f/8, ISO 100. Stitched them both. Perspective corrected, matched colors and contrast.

Verdict:
in the center, the Mamiya was a bit sharper (it *was* on a tripod).
Everywhere else, the XCD 45 stitch had more detail. Sometimes drastically so.

These are 100% crops on 13,000x13,000 pixel images!
XCD 45 on left, Mamiya 50 on right

BTW, I'm not arguing against shift lenses. I loved using a tech camera. This is more a comment on modern optics and 100MP sensors. It's also possible I have a bad copy of the 50, or it doesn't adapt well to the X2D.

I can only compare at 50 Mpix,
I found really a tiny difference in finest details @100% between my Mamiya 50 Shift and the XCD45 in favor of the XCD but a bit more difference in micro contrast.
And after post in Phocus no visible difference on a large print.
I guess your 50 shift or adapter has a problem, why is your whole frame a square ?

[Sandro]

1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.

Interesting set up, but how can you make it work?
PC-E lenses have electronic aperture, once upu mount them on a Novoflex adapter you cannot change aperture. You need a separate Nikon body with electrical aperture contacts to change the aperture, than unmount from the Nikon and mount on the adapter. Not a practical solution indeed.
Or, did you find a better solution?

[JCM-Photos]

If you can afford to work with a fixed aperture on the adapter, say for example f:11 (or any other aperture) there is a workaround with Nikon E lenses

Sandro you forgot a step
Here how to do it:

- mount the lens on a Nikon body
- select the aperture you want to use it
- press the depth of field preview button and maintain it
- while maintaining the DOF button remove the lens from the body (without turning the camera off)

Now the aperture remains stuck to the selected aperture and you can use it on an adapter

The aperture remains stuck until you mount it again on a Nikon camera you turn on.