Questions about H2

[elitegroup]

This forum is supposed to have the most knowledgeable database for all things Hasselblad, I have some questions.............

1) Is the H2 AF as fast as the integrated ultrafocus of the H3DII system? David G. said [Quote/] You won't see any difference in speed between the H2 and H3D. The H2 also had an ultrafocus adjustment with film - but it was cruder. It works now the same as the H3D. [End Quote]

I want to confirm this with other H users???

2) Is the H2 AF faster/snappier than the Mamiya AFDIII? I found the Phamiya slower and prone to hunting, I don't have access to an H2 here in Perth so I can not compare the two bodies side by side.

3) which are the fastest AF HC lenses? I shoot fashion and need fast AF? some one mentioned in LL the 150mm is one of the fastest AF lenses in the line up, I was considering the 210 until I heard it is slower in comparison? I like the compression of longer focal length lenses but will not compromise AF speed so I will no longer consider the 210mm (unless someone can correct me)

4) Does the 120 make a good portrait lens? is the AF fast? e.g. in comparison to the 150? if so, then I will consider the 120 because of its versatility as a macro lens.

I can not go down to my local dealer and try these lenses as they simply are not available, therefore I must rely on the forums replies.

Your help is appreciated

[Eivind Røhne]

3) which are the fastest AF HC lenses? I shoot fashion and need fast AF? some one mentioned in LL the 150mm is one of the fastest AF lenses in the line up, I was considering the 210 until I heard it is slower in comparison? I like the compression of longer focal length lenses but will not compromise AF speed so I will no longer consider the 210mm (unless someone can correct me)

Don't really know the difference between the 150 and 210 in focus speed, but I do use the 210 for a lot of fashion work and portrait, so I thought I'd offer my two cents.

Since the H cams only have one focus point in the middle, my opinion is that the focus speed is not that important; not for me at least. I don't know how other fashion shooters do this without multipoint focus (would be interesting to hear though!), but the solution I have found that works for me is this: When shooting fashion, the best light (I love available light with reflectors) is very low light, so I often tend to use a tripod. And when shooting full body length fashion shots in low light, and the head is framed in the upper part, the speed of the AF really doesn't help me that much. Cause then the models stomach would be sharp, and not the eyes..... So while I shoot, I keep my eye open for what part of the head, body, clothing etc is in the same focus plane as the eyes, and I focus manually on every shot. Keep the left hand on the focus ring and just keep following when the model moves. This technique dramatically upped my percentage of sharp shots. When I don't use this, I focus and recompose with disabled focus on the release button, and set to the user button instead.

[elitegroup]

the solution I have found that works for me is this: When shooting fashion, the best light (I love available light with reflectors) is very low light, so I often tend to use a tripod. And when shooting full body length fashion shots in low light, and the head is framed in the upper part, the speed of the AF really doesn't help me that much. Cause then the models stomach would be sharp, and not the eyes..... So while I shoot, I keep my eye open for what part of the head, body, clothing etc is in the same focus plane as the eyes, and I focus manually on every shot. Keep the left hand on the focus ring and just keep following when the model moves. This technique dramatically upped my percentage of sharp shots. When I don't use this, I focus and recompose with disabled focus on the release button, and set to the user button instead.

Thanks for your post Eivind 

I like to light my subjects so that they 'POP' from the background, I tend to use flash and balance ambient light. I've used the H3DII-39 & 50-110mm press AF lock and then recompose.......my hit rate was around 95%, I was very impressed with the integrated Ultrafocus 

I'm just wondering whether the H2's AF will not perform as accurately as the H3DII system? Also how fast is the 210's AF compared with the 150 & 300mm?

Any one with answers to my other questions?

Cheers!

[robertpoll]

I have the 120mm macro and to be honest am a little disappointed with it. The 50-110 seems much sharper in my experience (studio fashion, lit with flash, usually f/11 or f/16 sometimes on a tripod) which is a little counter-intuitive. The 50-110 is an incredible lens by the way but I guess if you're just shooting portraits at the long end it's not the best choice for you.

The 120mm is quite slow to focus also - more so than the zoom or the 80mm. You can restrict the focus range (on the body if I remember correctly) so that 'hunting' is a bit quicker but it's never a fast focusser.

Would be interested to hear what others think of the 120mm though - maybe mine's just a dud?

...rob

[elitegroup]

I have the 120mm macro and to be honest am a little disappointed with it. The 50-110 seems much sharper in my experience (studio fashion, lit with flash, usually f/11 or f/16 sometimes on a tripod) which is a little counter-intuitive. The 50-110 is an incredible lens by the way but I guess if you're just shooting portraits at the long end it's not the best choice for you.

The 120mm is quite slow to focus also - more so than the zoom or the 80mm. You can restrict the focus range (on the body if I remember correctly) so that 'hunting' is a bit quicker but it's never a fast focusser.

Would be interested to hear what others think of the 120mm though - maybe mine's just a dud?

...rob

I guess the 120mm is really just a macro lens and should be considered specifically for that purpose and not as a fast portrait lens.

Thanks for your perspective Rob 

[elitegroup]

1) Yes, the focus speed is the same with H2 and H3DII - I have have both and worked with H2 for 3 years, I know it better than my wife.

2) I investigated other 645 systems before moving to H, so my info is old here, but the H system blows away Mamiya in three aspects: 1) quality (YES QUALITY) 2) viewfinder 10x better 3) system software and control - but my info is based on the AFDII model

3) 80mm may be the fastest lens, maybe 100mm; Robert is right about the 120mm being slow and fishing sometimes - but it's also a macro - I love this lens. It's great with extension tubes, no, I'm wrong, it's amazing with the extension tubes.

4) I don't know why people think the HC 120mm is great for portraiture - it is a longer lens, heavy and just step a bit closer and use the faster 100mm lens (which gives you the option of nice bokeh), and is an excellent lens! Goodness, why would you use a lens for portraiture, burdened with elements for macro when the difference between the 120 and 100 is so slight! Remember, perspective is controlled by distance to subject and not by lens (not my quote - Ansel Adams said this).

Lastly, find a dealer who will let you try these lenses. Good luck.

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com

1) Thanks for the confirmation, this is excellent news

2) I've tested the Phamiya III (to slow) and contax (beautiful camera/ergonomics/lenses - just slow) There is no H2 here in Perth for me to test so I appreciate your review

3) I know of a fashion photographer in Denmark who stands by the 120 as his favorite portrait lens, but I guess he has a different way of working. I will go for the HC 100   

4) I've heard/read great things about the 100 f/2.2 and you've confirmed this again for me    

Thanks for you reply Derek, unfortunately my Hasselblad dealer here in Perth does not have ANY of the above mentioned lenses (e.g. 35, 100, 150) or an H2 for me to test, so I'm relying heavily on the members of this forum for a review. It's risky I know, but I've heard this is the best place to be for all things Hasselblad 

[elitegroup]

I'd like to ask a question about the HVM waist level finder (again there is no HVM here in Perth for me to look at) does it have a flip up 1x/2x or 3x magnifier built in? how clear/bright is it for low angle viewing?

Opinions would be much appreciated as I will have to make my decision on the H2 based on feed back from this forum

Cheers 

[elitegroup]

I'd like to ask a question about the HVM waist level finder (again there is no HVM here in Perth for me to look at) does it have a flip up 1x/2x or 3x magnifier built in? how clear/bright is it for low angle viewing?

Opinions would be much appreciated as I will have to make my decision on the H2 based on feed back from this forum

Cheers 

I have and use the HVM - there is no exposure info of course so you must use light meter and have control over exposure separately (in studio I supose this is easy, in landscape much harder). Could cause vertigo.

Kind regards,
Derek

No exposure info is O.K.

Is there a pop up magnifier?

[NickT]

Kia Ora David
Yes the HVM does have a pop up magnifier not sure what magnification it is. I shot V series Hasselblad for many many years and so was very used to working with waist level finders. When the HVM was announced I was very keen to get hold of one but it was quite a shock to go back to after getting used to the (excellent) prism finder. IMO only go for the HVM if you need it for low level shooting.

Re lenses I echo what others have said the 100 2.2 is a magical lens, if you think you might need macro ability on occasion get a couple of extension tubes. Oh and just to add to the mix the new zoom (35-90) is amazing and the AF is extremely fast. Not sure what the price is in AUD but it will be rather eye watering
Nick-T

[elitegroup]

Kia Ora David
Yes the HVM does have a pop up magnifier not sure what magnification it is. I shot V series Hasselblad for many many years and so was very used to working with waist level finders. When the HVM was announced I was very keen to get hold of one but it was quite a shock to go back to after getting used to the (excellent) prism finder. IMO only go for the HVM if you need it for low level shooting.

Re lenses I echo what others have said the 100 2.2 is a magical lens, if you think you might need macro ability on occasion get a couple of extension tubes. Oh and just to add to the mix the new zoom (35-90) is amazing and the AF is extremely fast. Not sure what the price is in AUD but it will be rather eye watering
Nick-T

Tena koe Nick,

Thanks for the info, I'll use the HV90x prism as standard but I'll need the HVM for low angle viewing when required.

I've heard rave reviews about the HC 100 so I'll definitely add this to the kit along with a couple of extension tubes. I like the sound of the 35-90 it's just a little short for me on the long end 

Ka Kite Ano 

[robertpoll]

Interesting that you're getting good results with the 120 Derek. What aperture/camera to subject distance (or magnification) are you shooting at? I'd be interested to work out whether it's just that the lens has a sweet spot that I'm managing to avoid or whether mine's a dud. Right now mine spends almost all of its time being an expensive paperweight!

...rob

[HughGilbert]

My 120 mm lens is a stonker... I use it all the time.  Specially for fine art reproduction work.  My other half Elizabeth Zeschin borrowed the 120 lens to take a portrait that was selected for the Taylor Wessing Show at the National Portrait Gallery.  It is hanging there now and is just over A1 in size from memory...
I am attaching the pic with her permission.  Go 120...

All best

Hugh

[MT]

Nick,

New Question: just bought a couple of H2 bodies recently, almost out of the box brand new. But one of the rechargeables does not seem to hold a charge at all. But it looks brand new. Should I do that Reset thing you mention in TipsTricks?

Why wouldn't a brand new grip not take a charge?

Thanks for hosting this forum.

MT

[NickT]

Hi Mark and welcome.
The new batteries do take a while to come up to full capacity, say 5 or 6 charge/discharge cycles. If one of yours is not holding a charge at all it may be faulty but try the reset procedure in any case.
Nick-T

[MT]

I have two questions regarding H2:

1. Today, I was shooting, (H2/P45+/RechargeBatteryGrip), and as I was shooting, the Phase back reported "corrupted file, not written". And the H2 readout on the grip then gave this message: BUSY, and would not let me shoot another picture. Do you think this was cause by a hiccup in the Phase back, or the H2 body? I turned the camera off, and the back off, and then both back on, but the body kept saying BUSY when I pressed the shutter release, and would not allow further shooting.

2. With my P45+ back on this H2, my battery life is shockingly short. It would appear almost that, when the back is on the body, but with the back powered off, that something is still pulling power from the Phase battery. Because many times, I might shoot ten frames with a fresh battery, then turn the back off, and come back to it the next day, and the battery is dead. Dead, as in, the back won't even turn on. This has happened very often, with multiple batteries. Could there be something still "on" even when the back is off?

Thank you.