Please use this thread to post reviews, opinions and images from the HC 3.2/150N
Here is a link to the technical data for the HC 3.2/150N:
http://hasselblad.com/media/6416/hc150n.pdf
How does one tell the difference between the 'old' 150 and the '150 N'? I'm pretty sure I have the old version - but not certain.
Alastair I'm pretty sure there it does actually say "N" on the new one after "150"
Nick-T
Quote from: NickT on October 26, 2010, 01:18:09 PM
Alastair I'm pretty sure there it does actually say "N" on the new one after "150"
Nick-T
Ah, well in that case. ::)
HC 150 (not N) one of my most used
f/10 - f/8:
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Falexmaxim.ca%2Ffiles%2FH%2F100906_307.jpg&hash=6db9b7202386f80b64073488cba7bd78a3c97b93)
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Falexmaxim.ca%2Ffiles%2FH%2F100827_193.jpg&hash=83f13a8acf1664338d9accf16ef83241ad7ec1fc)
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Falexmaxim.ca%2Ffiles%2FH%2F100826_028.jpg&hash=32bbd351bfc58ce2f24362a8604602f56ad7bcd0)
150 + 26 mm tube @ f/9:
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Falexmaxim.ca%2Ffiles%2FH%2F100906_094.jpg&hash=fa6a97b393c26d29d8a55d6df291cec4ced5ff1f)
100% (f/9, ISO50):
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Falexmaxim.ca%2Ffiles%2FH%2F100906_094d.jpg&hash=707d578f2b3e957776d9022fdb0d23f485566339)
H3D/31 @ ISO800, HC/150 (non-N)
Alex is it only on my monitor or are the most 100% crops not sharp? Only the last looks for me to be sharp... lg, rem
Quote from: rem on November 08, 2010, 10:56:06 PM
Alex is it only on my monitor or are the most 100% crops not sharp? Only the last two looks for me to be sharp... lg, rem
+1 i agree, it is not that sharp as it should be, is that intentionally or you didn't manage to focus and get sharper shots?
Quote from: TareqPhoto on November 09, 2010, 05:24:12 AM
Quote from: rem on November 08, 2010, 10:56:06 PM
Alex is it only on my monitor or are the most 100% crops not sharp? Only the last two looks for me to be sharp... lg, rem
+1 i agree, it is not that sharp as it should be, is that intentionally or you didn't manage to focus and get sharper shots?
If I were shooting products they would be all sharp. If you work with models you probably know that they move and breathe all the time and you hand hold the camera if you don't want to slow everybody down and try different angles. So as a result, in 20-30% the focus can be a few mm away from the eye. And the keepers are not based on the focus, unless it's completely off, but on the composition, expression etc.
Another thing you have to constantly struggle with is the autofocus which is often not fast and snappy enough for moving targets.
I'd like to see everybody's 100% crops. Not the sharpest photos, but the actual final picks from real shoots.
Cheers,
Alex
love this lens, nice and quick for un-structured portraiture
Alex it was not a critic, only a question, because it looks not to be in a strong movement. I now about the difficult focus but thats one of the benefits (sometimes). Yes, its sometimes really not easy for the perfect sharpness at the right point, but what is the benefit from a MF system, when the pictures wit a Nikanon are sharper then MF? The sharpness and resolution was the reason why I bought this spring the Hasselblad system. So, when my camera comes back from sweden from the repair (several weeks now), then I will start with training!;-)
Rem,
with Nikon, as I remember, I had more images in 100% focus due to the wider dof and faster AF. I wasn't happy with the results for many other reasons, though.
I really hope that Hasselblad update the whole lens line up to match AF speed to 35-90 or faster. 35-90 is fast...
Quote from: rem on November 10, 2010, 04:43:40 AMpictures wit a Nikanon
I prefer 'Cakon'. Any other mythical beasts out there? lets name them all or perhaps that would be going down the LL route.
Quote from: Alex Maxim on November 09, 2010, 06:57:36 AM
... the autofocus which is often not fast and snappy enough for moving targets.
Alex
Hi, Alex
Auto-focus is as much a feature of the camera as the lens... so what camera do you use?
Do you use a lens shade? ... on the big lenses the lens shade prevents the focus light seeing the whole subject, and this slows the autofocus, (I have only tested this on H4D-60/300mm).
The 150N is very much smaller than the 95mm filter-threaded lenses, but this might still be a problem close up.
Nice work Alex.
I agree, content rules. When dealing with real living breathing subjects and shooting fast for just the right expression, composition and/or action pose ... there is most certainly a margin of micro error even when stopped down a bit. The best shot isn't always the best one technically.
However, a 100% crop from one of these cameras represents one heck of an enlarged image compared to a 35mm DSLR ... viewed at the same relative usage size, even a micro error will look as sharp as a perfectly focused 35mm DSLR image. That's not meant to say that tight focus isn't the objective, but size can mitigate it occasionally if the shot is the best one.
In addition to commercial work, I've supplementally shot weddings for years with one of these cameras (H2D/22 to H3D/31&39 to H3D-II/31&39 ... to my current H4D/40 & my studio rig: H2F/39MS). Fast moving scenarios with people in every shot. Content rules, and usually a less than perfect file still looks great even at 17 X 22 with careful contrast adjustments and sharpening.
Lighing plays a huge roll in the perception of sharpness. Diffused light and muted contrast looks really diffused and muted when enlarged to 100% or more. That's the point ... otherwise every pore, and the hair in that pour shows up ... LOL! If you shoot a face, you light for the face ... if you enlarge just the eye it may not be perfectly lit ... but if you were shooting the eye only,
you'd light for that only ... That's the fallacy of enlarging some micro portion of a people image.
As far as focusing speed and focusing accuracy ... Hassey has addressed that pretty nicely with the H4D ... for the first time since using these cameras my H4D/40 is getting closer to the 35mm DSLRs when shooting in good to medium ambient light. In one respect, it has become even better thanks to True Focus/Focus Lock. I can use the center focus point to lock focus at the edge of a frame, or on a face of a full length model shot and re-compose while keeping the off-center subject in focus ... with a 35mm DSLR, you have to wheel the focus point over to the side ... and it isn't really to the side, since the focus points are grouped around the center not out to the edges. In this type of situation, the center focus point of the H4D is as good or sometimes better than the slower supplementary points on a 35mm DSLR.
Maybe time to upgrade from that H3D-II/39 Alex ??? LOL!
-Marc
Thank you, Marc.
And if you thoroughly look through a pile of fashion magazine, guys, you'll notice that there are quite a few photos that are not perfectly sharp or some of them are not sharp at all, lol. And art directors, fashion editors, don't really care about how sharp your pixels are. What they want to see, is if your image communicate what they want it to communicate. In most cases they don't even know what pixels are...
Marc, I'll wait for H5D, when Hasselblad have a display similar to iPhone's, maybe even with a pinch zoom, and maybe it will have WiFI :)
Alex
good lens for stitching, too.
made from 3 shots.
love fine contrast
F
Quote from: ACorrodi on November 27, 2010, 01:06:44 AM
good lens for stitching, too.
made from 3 shots.
love fine contrast
F
I have a 300 for scenes like that.
nice Fredi, where is it? lg, rem
Shot from the Harbour at Lake Zug.
I think about getting the 300 too. This shot couldn't have been done with it as I wanted some of the lake in the picture plus I did it portrait. The 300 would then have taken ... 6 shots as in 3 wide 2 tall ... Too hard
F
With HD-60.
First day of spring as well (maybe) last day of snow.
BlasR
I also was a little surprised that some of alex's 100% samples are not that sharp. But imo this is not necessarily the focus. If in phocus (software) you switch on or off the sharpen feature, you might get the same results/difference in the definition of "sharp".
Also a 100% snippet does not represent the whole picture. I bet even blowed up to A4 his pics will appear very sharp.
---------------------------
The biggest question remains unanswered: What is the difference between HC150 and HC150N? :)
Quote from: SteveK on March 25, 2011, 02:28:46 AM
If in phocus (software) you switch on or off the sharpen feature, you might get the same results/difference in the definition of "sharp".
There is no sharpening. Neither in Phocus nor in Photoshop. I leave it to the publisher. I am not a fan of sharpened files myself.
Alex
I have the same hard earned experiences from using the 150 for studio shots - portraits and models. The limited df and slightly slow af is creating a problem, even to the extent that the shutter quite frequently have been refusing to trigger the shot while having the expression or pose that you want to capture. At times, very frustrating. Have upgraded from H3DII-50 to H4D50, but haven´t had time to really try it out.
My experience from using the 100 mm with better df some of the off focus problems are solved.
Although, I am not either into too much of post-processing, sharpening in Phocus is a must as we all are shooting in RAW, which really is raw when it comes out of the camera.
While using LR, there is already some sharpening done by the standard setting once you open a file although even here some more sharpening normally is needed according to my view.
Mats
when sharpening is turned off (unchecked) the difference is enourmous compared to the standard sharpen setting with a value of 100.
but I agree with alex that sharpening may be left to the post production (sharpen imo also depends on the final size you are using, so it makes no sense to sharpen too much from the very beginning). this is why I do not exegerate with it and leave it to standard.
I will try to find some people samples of my HC150 as well... when looking at stills, it is damn sharp at 100% even when sharpen is turned off (though RAW is not too sharp by nature).
still I do not know the differenece HC150 vs. HC150N
did anybody find ou????
what I was told, the 150N is faster then the older one.
rem
I can confirm the slight unsharp habbit when using the HC150 with moving targets but I find this quite normal and I have similar effects when using my 200mm with the Nikon. With fixed targets the HC150 is cutting sharp!
Sample picture @ f7.1 and 1/160s
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stevekay.de%2Fpublicstuff%2FSKS_20110312_H04652_700x525_q10.jpg&hash=54c35fb9756a5901b6d5819069a80b4249d9fc1c)
This is a 100% snipped (left default sharpening by Phocus / right sharpen off)
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stevekay.de%2Fpublicstuff%2FSKS_20110312_H04652_100percent_snippet_sharp100.jpg&hash=af53fe40268ac762dec38daafe1c17185dc5f99c) (https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stevekay.de%2Fpublicstuff%2FSKS_20110312_H04652_100percent_snippet_sharpno.jpg&hash=20dc7c7f53d2facd5bd4e12c56b2261e674fc081)
This is a another 100% snipped (left default sharpening by Phocus / right sharpen off)
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stevekay.de%2Fpublicstuff%2FSKS_20110312_H04652_100percent_snippet_wool_sharpen100.jpg&hash=8ed7822b7edd3adb69db98ef2eeba8493127bbcc)(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stevekay.de%2Fpublicstuff%2FSKS_20110312_H04652_100percent_snippet_wool_sharpenno.jpg&hash=cd8543b40ddb65db53e84e423554a9769a5c5597)
On the second sample you can see the difference between sharpen "on" and "off" very well. Even with the default low sharpen values (amount 100, radius 1) it is a huge difference.
Which is sharper? The HC 3.2/150 or the HC 4/210 ?
Quote from: SteveK on April 03, 2011, 10:57:16 AM
I can confirm the slight unsharp habbit when using the HC150 with moving targets but I find this quite normal and I have similar effects when using my 200mm with the Nikon. With fixed targets the HC150 is cutting sharp!
On the second sample you can see the difference between sharpen "on" and "off" very well. Even with the default low sharpen values (amount 100, radius 1) it is a huge difference.
I do not think these pictures are very sharp by the Hasselblad yardstick... what camera were you using?
sunshine, sunshine
HC 150N, ISO 50, f4 - 1/250
sharp enough by f4? I love this piece for portrait outside and inside also!
HC 3,2/150N & H4D-60 - ISO 200, f3,2 - 1/46
Love this lens, my Grandson Lucas this aftenoon. Ixpress 528C and it's only the Mk1
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.static.flickr.com%2F6106%2F6341009481_fc53cd77b0_z.jpg&hash=76b1cb09e98a27d6a03702e9423b686e4b99c9db)
100% crop
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi332.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm338%2FEdBray%2FLucas100crop.jpg&hash=313a1401a26aa9837f36e01ddfb238e4a6f95894)
D*mn you, Ed.... now I know which lens is 1st on my new purchase list!
Lovely shot - and it really is sharp!
Cheers, S:)
Quote from: Swissblad on November 20, 2011, 12:24:48 AM
D*mn you, Ed.... now I know which lens is 1st on my new purchase list!
Lovely shot - and it really is sharp!
Cheers, S:)
Hi Sinuhe,
The strange thing is Hasselblad did not think the 150mm HC was sharp enough and brought out the HC 150N, how sharp must that be? ???
HC150 version 1 plus 100% crop. When used properly this lens is tack sharp.
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pepperanddust.com%2Fimages%2FEnrique-0071c.jpg&hash=0fdac6eb28dd5af1a08d8428956886a985081b1e)
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pepperanddust.com%2Fimages%2FEnrique-0071d.jpg&hash=723ce8672e1c1550a8130498eb01daf42caa268d)
I had read that the 150N is a tweak with a bit better performance to the edges and close focusing ... but I cannot find the data sheet for the non-N version to compare it to the current N version MTFs on the Hasselblad site. The hard specs look the same, same number of elements in the same amount of groups. I have the 150N only because I got a mint one for helping a guy solve some photo problems he was having. Of course the N is now the only one you can buy new, so if you can find a mint used one I doubt you'll miss anything much, especially for portrait work.
I also bought the new HC 50-II, and that one does show a marked improvement over the previous version ... which is confirmed by the Hasselblad data sheets. It's now 11 elements in 7 groups verses 10 elements in 9 groups. Love the new HC50-II, much sharper from wide open to f/8, and I have noticed much sharper results at closer distances.
The MTFs for the 120 and 120-II look to also be a tweak ... same elements in same groups, the MTFs show a slight improvement at f/4 and f/8 but I think you'd need to be using a H4D/60 or Multi-Shot to pixel-peep any difference. What would be of interest is whether the slight difference would translate into a 1/2 stop more before diffraction set in ... but now I'm getting beyond my scope of technical geek-dom ... LOL!
-Marc
Here is a 100% crop
Did you by any chance turn on the moire reduction? There is a lot of aliassing in the eyes iris.
Its a coloured contact lens Dustbak! ;)
Quote from: Dustbak on February 16, 2012, 01:34:53 AM
Did you by any chance turn on the moire reduction? There is a lot of aliassing in the eyes iris.
Those are colored contact lenses. I had a couple models wearing those. Can't see them until you check images at 100%. Looks weird. I wonder why the manufacturers don't print the pattern at higher dpi.
Quote from: Alex Maxim on February 16, 2012, 04:39:03 AM
Quote from: Dustbak on February 16, 2012, 01:34:53 AM
Did you by any chance turn on the moire reduction? There is a lot of aliassing in the eyes iris.
Those are colored contact lenses. I had a couple models wearing those. Can't see them until you check images at 100%. Looks weird. I wonder why the manufacturers don't print the pattern at higher dpi.
Because we don't stare at peoples' eyes that much or that closely... unless they are really hot. ;)
Quote from: David Grover on February 16, 2012, 04:40:20 AM
Quote from: Alex Maxim on February 16, 2012, 04:39:03 AM
Quote from: Dustbak on February 16, 2012, 01:34:53 AM
Did you by any chance turn on the moire reduction? There is a lot of aliassing in the eyes iris.
Those are colored contact lenses. I had a couple models wearing those. Can't see them until you check images at 100%. Looks weird. I wonder why the manufacturers don't print the pattern at higher dpi.
Because we don't stare at peoples' eyes that much or that closely... unless they are really hot. ;)
Lol :)
;D Allright. Geez, that looks weird. Why in heavens name would you want a brown colored contact when most people in the world already have brown eyes :) I did see images last year where you could read the brand name on the contact (unfortunately not a HB product).. That brand name apparently was printed at higher Dpi, obviously more important than color ::)
Sorry for the delayed response and yes those are her contacts. I dont know if she is wearing them for color or for sight. I didnt notice them until I saw it at 100%.
Regards,
Srinivasa Regeti
Can someone please tell me the difference between the HC 150 and the HC 150N. I'm a newbie to Hasselblad and have recently purchased the HC 150. Did I purchase the right lens?
Sorry! I read the rest of the posts and had my question answered.
Hc 150mm N + 26mm tube (https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpayload27.cargocollective.com%2F1%2F5%2F168650%2F2858358%2Fse_0234_o.jpg&hash=f3486848c367450a63ffc30821f6ab836ca9f6e7)
I purchased this lens for portraits but i find it extremely useful for still life and advertising photos. There is quite some difficulty to get a correct focusing when shooting portraits due to the short DOF but if you get it right the lens is unbelievably sharp. ;D
Quote from: Alex Maxim on November 11, 2010, 06:33:02 AM
Thank you, Marc.
And if you thoroughly look through a pile of fashion magazine, guys, you'll notice that there are quite a few photos that are not perfectly sharp or some of them are not sharp at all, lol. And art directors, fashion editors, don't really care about how sharp your pixels are. What they want to see, is if your image communicate what they want it to communicate. In most cases they don't even know what pixels are...
Marc, I'll wait for H5D, when Hasselblad have a display similar to iPhone's, maybe even with a pinch zoom, and maybe it will have WiFI :)
Alex
That's out already - it's called a H4X with an IQ180 back ;)
The 150N looks pretty good. I shoot portraits quite a bit and am seriously considering this lens. I typically shoot with the 100/2.2 and 80/2.8 and was wondering if anyone can tell me how fast/slow the AF is compared to the 100 and the 80 primes
Another image from this past weekend, handheld (hence not very sharp)
Exposure Time : 1/180
F Number : 3.2
Exposure Program : Manual
ISO : 200
Camera Model Name : Hasselblad H4D-40
Camera Model Name : Hasselblad H4D-40
Exposure Time : 1/180
F Number : 5.6
ISO : 100
HC 3.2/150N is definitely my favorite studio lens it worth every penny. Some days ago i tried to take a photo using only candle light, something i thought it was impossible for a medium format camera. The result was a pleasant surprise to me.
Iso 400 , f3,2 , 1/15sec using tripod
This is from an assignment at the Hearst Tower NYC.
Michael Clinton, Exec for Hearst Corp, shot for The Daily Front Row. Published and distributed during NY Fashion Week, Feb. 2013.
After shooting the H4D 60 for a few months I am starting to crush on the HC 150.
Model: Hasselblad H3DII-39
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Aperture: f/4
Focal Length: HC 3.2/150 mm (No N)
ISO Speed: 50
Extension H 13mm
LR developped
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/16069242079_855a9404dd_n.jpg) (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/16069242079_855a9404dd_b.jpg)
Model: Hasselblad H3DII-39
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Aperture: f/4
Focal Length: HC 3.2/150 mm (No N)
ISO Speed: 50
LR developped
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/16168895380_14ec730738_n.jpg) (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/16168895380_14ec730738_b.jpg)
Interesting thread. Nice to know the 150 is an amazing lens. Been contemplating this one or the macro 120. Of people think the 150 is slow is imagine the 120 is a lot worse.
My reason for considering those two are my preference for 135mm on full frame 35mm DSLRs. The 150 comes closer to that view angle on my h1 with p30.
I can't afford the 150N new, and it's not available locally where I am second hand (I'm in shanghai), so it looks like I'll go for version 1.
Did anyone make side by side comparisons of the old 150 and the 150N? I have the old version and the amount of CA not acceptable in many situations on the H6D-100c. Is the 150N any better?
/Henrik
Henrik, I haven't done the comparison but the "older" HC 150 is sharp in my landscapes and lateral CA not a big issue at f=11, which I found the best compromise for this lens wrt sharpness, contrast, and CA whilst avoiding diffraction blur. I got this lens for 700 Euros and it is a bargain for this amount of money in relation to its capabilities, including the leaf shutter (up to 1/800 sec.).
Only under challenging frontal light conditions, the remaing small amount of lat. CA at f=11 can easily be corrected when ticking 'the remove CA' box in Lightroom plus evt. then switching to the manual tab in the Lightroom lens profiles section and moving the slider for lilac borders up to about 5.
You then have still the option to narrow down the lilac tonal range with the sliders further below. With all these measures I could always get satisfactory image results with the older HC 150 version.
For pictures with this lens I also apply small increases in texture and clarity as well as sharpness (with a small radius).
I have saved all these settings as a "HC 150 user preset" and apply this automatically when importing HC 150 raw pictures in Lightroom.
All the best, Holger
Hi, I tested my 150 (old) vs 150 orange (optically same as N) on my H6D-100c...
Not great differences:
On high contrast edges (dark framed industrial glass wall with direct sun from inside) ...the old had little magenta fringe (1px or2) where the new had orange fringe (1px almost)
For me not enough to upgrade (if i don't decide to buy an x1d and use it with af on it)
Thanks Max, sounds like it is worth a try.
As Holger says the original HC 150 is a great lens in most cases. The shooting conditions during my recent project were less than optimal though and I experienced lots of magenta fringe around foliage.
/Henrik