Shift options for X2D

[yvette]

Hi!  Just curious if anyone knows of any options for tilt/shift with X2D.  The problem I'm discovering is that every adapter or third-party lens requires using the electronic shutter and the electronic shutter won't allow for flash sync.  Are there any options that would allow flash sync?  I was looking at the Cambo system, but got confused with all the different adapters and lenses, etc.  Can you not just use XCD lenses on the Cambo and then have flash sync?  Annoying this is so complicated.  I moved over from the Fuji GFX system, but when it comes to just having simple shift option for certain situations I'm starting to regret it.  Any help or direction would be great appreciated.  Thanks!!

[Ralf]

So far, the only thing that comes to mind is the HTS in conjunction with one of the H to X adapters, which allow the use of the leaf shutter.
It would be nicer if Hasselblad brought an XTS onto the market.

[Bob Foster]

Hi yvette,

I agree with Ralf that using Hasselblad HC lenses mounted on the HTS adapter and the XH adapter between the HTS and the camera is the easiest solution. XCD lenses cannot be used with this or other setups as the flange focal distance is too short.

Since you have stated an interest in Cambo's Actus system I'll describe two ways that I use my X2D with flash and an old Cambo Ultima II that has been upgraded to the currently available Actus XL-35.

First method-

To configure the rear standard the Cambo ACXL-968 is placed into the dovetail of the camera and secured then the AC-793 bayonet adapter is locked into the ACXL-968. If you were planning on using a digital back adapters are available for Contax, Hasselblad, Leaf, Phase One and Sinar backs.

The front standard is configured by sliding the ACXL-960 lens plate adapter into the dovetail and securing it then mounting a lensplate with the lens installed. There is a very wide selection of lensplates available. In this case I've used an ACB-0 lensplate because the lens illustrated below has a Copal number 0 shutter. Attach the cable release and sync cord to the lens.

The bellows is affixed to the bayonet adapter and the lens plate by strong magnets. Both the bayonet adapter and the lensplate have light seals. For the images below I've used an AC-214 bellows. Longer and shorter bellows are available. I've never had a problem with light leaks using this system.

Preparatory work: Turn the Camera on, select electronic shutter, set ISO and T (time exposure). Set aperture and shutter speed on the lens. Open the preview lever on the lens. Focus, adjust movements (rise, shift, etc) as necessary, and refocus. Repeat as necessary. When satisfied, close the preview lever on the lens, then (and only then) cock the shutter.

To make the exposure: Open the electronic shutter on the camera with either the shutter release or an iphone, ipad, or laptop computer.(it is set on time, but no light is reaching the lens yet). Next trip the shutter on the lens with the cable release, then close the shutter.

Examine the image, make any correction(s) necessary.

This sounds complicated but with practice and a reasonable degree of organization setup and prep work can be accomplished in 10-15 minutes, the entire exposure cycle takes me about 6 seconds per frame.

By the way, if you happen to have some Hasselblad/Zeiss lenses designed to fit the 500 series of cameras (the original V series, not the XCD##V lenses) Cambo makes an adapter that allows you to cock and use the leaf shutter with the PC port in these lenses. This is the ACB-HVSA.

Second method-

This is how I go about using flash with barrel lenses, inspection lenses and enlarger lenses.

In a dimly lit studio it is possible to control one leg of the exposure triangle with the aperture of the lens, another leg with the ISO selection, and the final leg with the output power of the flash. Making use of he inverse square law is exceptionally handy here. The number of flash units, their placement, and controlling the distance from the subject to the background can and do all play a role.

Setup is similar to the above except the lens use has no shutter. That being so a good flash meter is a significant help.

To make the exposure: Open the electronic shutter on the camera with either the shutter release or an iphone, ipad, or laptop computer. Fire the flash manually, and then close the shutter. I'm not sure if this will work with the current version of Phocus or Phocus Mobile as these are new versions that I haven't yet used.

Many monolights or pack and head systems have available software. When the camera control software does work I prefer to have both the camera control and the flash control windows open on my laptop. In this case exposure is a matter of three clicks.

I've included 3 snapshots of my Actus XL-35 set up for flash photography that illustrate an example of rise, and extreme examples of shift and tilt. Not all versions in the Actus line all of have these as well as other capabilities.

If you have further questions feel free to ask.

Bob

[yvette]

Wow this is amazing!  Thank you for all this incredible information Bob. It's going to take me minute to digest it all, but thank you!!