Cross-threaded camera body on H5

[Sue Gilmore]

I have not used my H5 for a while and to my horror now find that the body cap is stuck - cross-threaded. Please help!

[Conner999]

I've never done this, so do at own risk, but my inner MacGyver has an idea that should be low to no risk to the body.

So, FWIW:
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You basically need to remove the structural integrity of the body cap so you no longer have one side fighting against the other and hindering removal. You have the benefit that the cap is thin plastic and plastic that is a poor heat conductor (v. metal):

-Remove the back and other bits.

- Use a cutting 'blade' with a cheap 'trigger type' soldering gun to cut the cap by melting a line thru it. It's thin plastic, so it should take no time. Use short, frequent cuts and take your time, especially when 'blade' close the mount rim.

I'd start around one mount bayonet. No need to go all the way across the diameter if a few short cuts around a bayonet will release pressure.

You could use a Dremel, but this way has no plastic fragments to worry about nor a slip marring the body/mount. You could 'brute force it' to break the plastic, but a slip or misapplied pressure could cause a problem. Think plastic surgery (pun intended) vs. a hammer.

Your only threats are prolonged heat contact with the mount rim and/or any possible effect of the fumes from the melting plastic affecting the plastics (VF/prism?) of the H5D body - or you.

Have the camera body cap-up so fumes immediately clear away. Could also do under your kitchen exhaust fan.

Eventually you'll get to a point where cap integrity dies and you can remove it in one mangled piece+.  It's the inverse of cutting a nut that's CT'd on a bolt. Release the clamping pressure and remove the pieces.

Hopefully someone has a better idea(s), but the above is an option.

[Sue Gilmore]

Thank you, Connor999

[docholliday]

I've had a few assistants that weren't paying attention and cross-threaded the body cap on my H5 bodies. I just grabbed the cap across the center twist "handle" with a pair of channel locks and twisted hard to remove them (pull away or push slightly while twisting to alter the pressure).

The part to pay attention to is that the cap doesn't get hung up on the lens lock tab inside the mount. If the tab is what the cap is stuck against, you may have to *tighten* the cap a hair while holding the lens release button down, then remove the cap. If not, it'd probably be good to hold the button anyways and twist. Pay attention to which side of the cap is higher in the mount - that's probably the side that's actually cross threaded whereas the lower side is under the proper groove but now is being cut into since it's cockeyed.

I do this with the body between my legs for leverage. You could have another person hold the body while you do this. It'll be stiff as the body lens grooves are probably cutting into the cap. Either leave the back on (but don't grab it as you don't want to leverage and break the mount tab) or put a cap on the back to protect the shutter curtain.

Luckily, unlike V bodies, there's no drivetrain screw to get hung up on and break. Typically, the lens contacts don't bind up as there's nothing on the cap to really grab them, but if there was a groove or something, you might bend a pin - it would be rare.

[MSuser]

I have not used my H5 for a while and to my horror now find that the body cap is stuck - cross-threaded. Please help!

My personal experience has been that sometimes, when you have threads cross threaded or a bayonet mount misaligned, the more force you apply to removal the tighter it binds. I prefer to start by gently rocking patiently to unbind and increase pressure gradually like in this example.