Buying a Digital Hasselblad, but which one? desicion between h2d, h3d, h3dII,-39

[Robert Eder]

Hello,

I am new to the board and currently into buying a hasselblad h system.

The h4 system is too expansive right now so i am looking for a h2 or h3 or h3II 39 mpix version.

I tested a h2d-39 and a h3dii-50 today and took some pictures with them. the h2d pictures are nice but quite grainy at 100%
I like the quality of the h3dii50 but i do not need the resolution.

I was not able to test a h3d-39 or h3dII-39 yet, so i could need some infos on these systems.

what are the differences between the 3 systems?

Greetings and thanks,

Robert

[sns7000]

Robert,

Grainy at 100% ???
What ISO were you testing at?

I started with the 528CMS with an upgraded H2 and now I'm using a H3Dll-39MS. I've never seen any noise except when I was far off my correct exposure and shooting in available light that was extremely low.

I agree that I don't think that I need the resolution of the 50 or 60, there may be other reasons that I would upgrade but at the moment I can't see why I would.

What is your budget? I've not bought any used digital cameras. Are you looking at used or new?

If I were starting from scratch I would aim for the H3Dll-39. It has all of the bells and whistles allowing you to use everything that Hasselblad has dreamed up so far.

What do you shoot? I need a system that captures single shots and multi. I need to shoot with the H3 and my Linhof view camera too. I really appreciate the multishot and use it on at least half of my shoots. The 16 shot on the 528 is jaw dropping, but if you are a people shooter not of any use to you.

You can't put a film back on an H3 but can on all earlier models. Not really important unless you want a film option for backup when things go squirrely. I've never used my film back nor extra insert nor polariod back, but some on the list have and still do from time to time. Just a thought.

If you need the 28mm then you must use an H3 I think. The HTS will accomodate all H cameras according to the datasheet but if you need lens shifts I'd check with Hasselblad to make sure that all of the data is read by the older cameras.

You might include the H3Dll-31 to your list for a lower cost entry into the Hasselblad family. It is slightly faster when shooting and has 1 stop higher ISO @1600, but a smaller chip and file size.

Scott Smith

[Robert Eder]

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply!

I included a 100% crop from yesterday. It was shot on iso200 in bad fluorescent light.
I was just considering the h2d because its pretty pricey, but i am more into the h3d or h3dII models.
I´d like to also get the TS module later.

Primarily i want to buy a body + 35mm or 28mm lens + 80mm lens, eventually the 150mm too

I do mainly landscapes, people and automotive stuff.



Greetings,

Robert

[H3dfan]

Higher Iso that is very good will be obtainerd with the H3dII-31Mp, not expensive, great camera, great files!!! Have one for sale with less than 10000 exposures.

[sns7000]

Robert,

I don't see grain-noise in this as much as I see movement, out of focus background and off color. I think that you need to test in a more realistic way before judging quality.

If you intend to use a 28mm then the H2 is out of the equation. The H3Dll no matter which MPX count will fit your plans well.

I favor the 120 lens over the 150, the macro is very nice to have and I think that it is the best lens Hasselblad makes. The 80 is also very strong. I have the 35, 50 and 210 as well but they don't get used nearly as much. Many portrait folks rave about the 100, I haven't used one.

Good luck.

[Robert Eder]

Thanks for the answers!

I am not interested in the 31mpx version because of the chip size.

I did some more tests in better lit situations, but on this photo the grain was best visible.

So i am heading for a h3d or h3dII version.

Greetings,

Robert

[hvk]

If you intend to use a 28mm then the H2 is out of the equation.

Why? I use it all the time on my H2F/CFH.

/Henrik

[sns7000]

Looks like you have a special setup. The datasheet states "Please note, however, that this special lens is designed specifically for the H3D camera model and is for digital use only". Are you sure that you are using a 28MM?

[scottzhang]

Hi,
from the sample image crop, the grainy are in the darker 2  zones (assume there are 5 zones) of the dynamic range which makes it rather normal for any digital back.
the result will be similar no matter what back you are trying from.
cheers

[scottzhang]

If you intend to use a 28mm then the H2 is out of the equation.

Why? I use it all the time on my H2F/CFH.

/Henrik

28mm was designed later and later cameras do have a digital correcting thingy in it for that particilar lens 

[hvk]

Looks like you have a special setup. The datasheet states "Please note, however, that this special lens is designed specifically for the H3D camera model and is for digital use only". Are you sure that you are using a 28MM?

Yes, I use the 28mm and HTS on a H2F with CFH back. AFAIK the requirement is a combination that supports DAC + a Hasselblad back.
The H2D looks very similar to my setup, except it doesn't support a film back. Maybe the H2F supports DAC and the H2D doesn't?

I think the confusion is due to the 28mm lens not being supported on a H2 with Phase, Leaf or Sinar backs.

/Henrik

[hvk]

If you intend to use a 28mm then the H2 is out of the equation.

Why? I use it all the time on my H2F/CFH.

/Henrik

28mm was designed later and later cameras do have a digital correcting thingy in it for that particilar lens  

I think the correct statement is that the cameras that support the 28mm lens provide enough information (focus distance etc) for Phocus to
perform the  DAC corrections. If you look at a 3FR shot with the 28mm in Lightroom is is pretty obvious the corrections have not been performed
in the camera.

Looking at the datasheets at hasselblad.se it appears the H2F/CFH and H2F/CF combos support the 28mm (in addition to the H3D and H4D).
Question is whether the H2D can be upgraded to H2F status or not. My H2F started out as a H1.

/Henrik

[TareqPhoto]

I recommend you to go with H3DII-39 if you can, or H3DII-31, these are very nice cameras, i was looking for H3DII-50 but it was out of my budget, even H3DII-39 was over budget for me but the salesman helped me to get one, after one year with it i traded-in for H4D-60 and i am waiting when it will hit the market so i get my copy.

[davidthescot]

Hi

I bought and HD3-31 and then switched to the HD3-39 and that was a great decision.   The quality and dynamic range is awesome compared with a D3X which I also use. 

I use the Hasselblad for interior and exterior architecture with lenses from 28 to 210 - mostly I use the 28 (fantastic lens) with and without the HTS adapter, the 80 and the 210mm. Apart from the increased image size a good reason for avoiding the HD3-31 is that the lens factor is 1.3 as opposed to 1.1 for the HD3-39 which renders the 28mm less wide. 

The HD3-39 is the best value in the Hasselblad range at present if you don't need true focus or totally huge print sizes and you can buy one with not v=too much use at a good price during the change to the H4D. 

David