Focussing screens and diopter adjustment

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bdp

OK, maybe I'm just going blind, but ever since I got my Hasselblad (4 months ago) I'm finding it very hard to focus accurately compared to my Contax with a digi back. I don't know if it is the focussing screen or something else but I constantly focus just behind the subject. Maybe it's just a matter of getting used to the characteristics of the H lenses.

Are there any brands of aftermarket focussing screen that might help me out? I did have a Beattie screen in the Contax, so maybe that is it. They don't make screens for the H cameras as far as I can see.

Also, I don't know where the '0' or unadjusted point is on the diopter adjustment. Maybe I have made it harder for myself by fiddling with this dial and can't get it back to no adjustment. FWIW I have excellent eyesight and don't wear glasses. Any tips here wold be appreciated too.

Does anyone else find their H camera harder to focus manually compared to other medium format bodies they have owned? I have had Mamiya RZ, Fuji 680 and Contax 645 and they were all easier than the H to focus.

Ben

Douglas Fairbank @ Classic V

Try focusing the viewfinder when the camera is pointing a a blank subject with little or no texture, look for the texture of the screen itself. Also check that the screen is correctly fitted in the frame, I have seen them displaced on occasion. Do you have a mask in place that might be stopping the screen sitting properly? Maybe also try taking the prism off and focussing with a loupe to ascertain if there could be problem in the viewfinder.

Is there any part of the world at the moment that has the season previously called spring. It has passed by the UK.
Owner of Classic V, support for Hasselblad V system cameras. www.classicv.co.uk

bdp

Hi Douglas,

Thanks for the tips. I will check the placement of the screen. The only mask is the built-in blacked-off section that is specific to the H4D-40 screen, so I assume this can't be a problem. I'll also try using a loupe with the prism off. My H5 comes soon, maybe it'll be better, but as far as I have read nothing much has changed except for the colour of the body and the firmware.... Would be nice if they made improvements such as reducing the mirror slap and other refinements to the body, but I'm getting off topic a bit.

Autumn here... beautiful days this week and the water is actually warmer to swim in now than during summer. I'm sure you didn't want to hear that...!

Ben

NickT

G'day Ben
Set the diopter so the LCD readout in the viewfinder is sharpest.

Also re Mirror slap try using the mirror delay setting under settings/custom options I sometimes push mine out to 200ms when the daylight levels in the studio drop.

Nick-T
Nick-T typing at you from Flexframe's secret location under a Volcano

bdp

Thanks Nick,

I played with the diopter yesterday and think I've got it nailed. I just find it strange that there is no indication where the '0' mark is.

I have my mirror delay set to 100ms which was noticeably better than 50ms for handheld shots. Sharp eyelashes at 1/160th of a second. Anything slower than this I need some sort of tripod or monopod.

Ben