hasselbladdigitalforum.com

Please use this thread to post reviews, opinions and images from the HTS 1.5.

Here is a link to the technical data for the HTS:

http://hasselblad.com/media/1332322/uk_hts_datasheet_v6.pdf

HTS with 2.8/80mm:  Tilt -10.9°, Shift -1.1mm. 1/8, f/22 @ ISO 50
Distance to the first flowers appr. 1m or less.

Bilbao, Guggenheim
HTS with 3.5/35mm: Tilt -0.4°, Shift +18mm, 1/320, f/7.1 @ ISO 100

HTS with HCD 4/28mm:  Tilt -0.3°, Shift +9.3mm. 1/90, f/11 @ ISO 50

Lanzarote, Salinas de Janubio:
HTS with HCD 4/28mm, Tilt -2.6°, Shift -1.9mm, 1/100, f/12 @ ISO 50

Flowers of Monet's garden in Giverny:

HTS with 2.8/80mm (hand held !!): Tilt -4.2°, Shift 0, Rot -90°
1/180, f/6.3 ISO 400

H3D 39, 100mm, HTS(T -10.5, S -0.4, R 90), ISO200, f 5.0, 1/90.

Super silky shots Derek

Despite my earlier reservations I picked up a HTS a few days ago

I'm used to Loupe on GG focusing so I anticipate this will be a steep learning curve but much less weight to carry

Phil

Thanks Derek for the great pictures. I'm not so sure because I would use the HTS also much for architecture and some say the quality is far away from a Alpa/Arca etc... But I think the quality should always be better than architecture with a 35mm!???? lg, rem

Played a bit with HTS + HCD28 and HC35. Combo, i.e. used lens + HTS can be seen from filename.


Shooting distance for the pepper was 50 cm between the front object and lens filter (polarizing), f11, 1/8 sec, ISO50, tilt=-7.9,

while the minimum distance between the front tube and the HC35's front lens was 30cm (40cm to the tube in the back ground), f11, 1/4 sec, ISO100, tilt=-6.3, rot=90,

and minimum distance for the HTS+HCD28 combo was approximately 5cm shorter, f11, 1/4 sec, tilt=-4, rot=90

Dereck
Does the HTS + 28 cover the 60's sensor? Would you know?
F

Derek,

Normally I don't like these types of photos, but this one sort of grabs me.  Great job!

Greg

Derek,

Cracking image made all the more impressive by using the HTS in a blizzard - braver man than me!

Henry

Derek,

Congratulations!  I'll bet it is stunning at that size.

Greg

Derek -

Do you find it hard to focus with the HTS? Coming from 4x5, with its nice large ground glass, I'm finding the H3 a bit hard to use. My procedure with the 45 was to focus on a far point, then tilt until the near point was in focus. This worked because I was using a field camera that had base tilt. I think that the HTS has axis tilt - that the lens rotates on a nodal point in the center of the lens, rather than base tilt which rotates around a nodal point at the base of the camera (I think I'm using these terms correctly but not positive).

So, my procedure with the HTS has been to compose, then focus on the center of the frame. Then, I dial in a very small amount of tilt - most of what I've read about 45 says that the amount of tilt should be in the 1-3 degree range in most cases for landscape.

So far I've been getting things pretty much in focus, but in a few cases I've been out of focus at infinity.

Quote from: Derek Jecxz on June 15, 2011, 02:39:39 PM
28mm + HTS + .6 ND + .9 ND Grad, f51 @ 1:21
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jecxz.com%2Fimages%2Fetc%2F850066_A1209395.jpg&hash=1e01d6bb4ec41d16aff450c45607b0c709217e8b)

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com

Wow to the two last shots, Derek!
They would look good printed really big.

Derek, this two picture are really woooooooooonderfull!
rem

Nice work Derek.  For the second photo, what was the role of the HTS in the shot?  Also, which camera did you use to get a 1:21 exposure time?  I'm hoping that you are beta testing long-overdue firmware for the H4D60!  Please keep posting your beautiful work.

Quote from: Derek Jecxz on June 13, 2011, 04:48:49 PM
28mm + HTS + .9 ND + .9 ND Grad
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jecxz.com%2Fimages%2Fetc%2F850068_A1209531.jpg&hash=00a0def03544980831294f55dde727f663d07493)

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com

Derek, do you by any chance remember the location of this place? I'd really like to go there one day.

Thank you,
Alex

Derek, I just followed that link. The images are taking seconds to load.

Quote from: Derek Jecxz on June 17, 2011, 01:02:52 PM

Quote from: Alex Maxim on June 17, 2011, 12:46:15 PM
Derek, do you by any chance remember the location of this place? I'd really like to go there one day.

Thank you,
Alex

Of course! Every image on my website has a map with the location. When you view the image, click the link below the it and the map will appear. That's where it was made. Keep in mind, tide was out when I made this photograph, so the stream is probably a daily thing. You must know your tides. This image is in my latest works link: http://jecxz.com/main.asp?mode=latest

;d

Thank you!

Derek -

Do you create scene calibration images when you shoot? I've been experimenting with a piece of plexi (the 95mm filter size of the 35mm lens I'm using precludes the use of a white balance filter) and  it works pretty well, although the software does not like images that have any vignetting.

Interesting. My first shoot with the HTS I didn't either. But, the images had a very strong green/magenta cast on them, especially those which had a lot of rise/fall (called shift on the HTS), far beyond what was aesthetically acceptable. Perhaps you have a different lens combination or dont' use much shift. Here's a crop of an image of sand on the beach. The image had 10mm of shift and 2.7 degrees of tilt

Godd Question,
normally the HCD28 image will be cropped, but with the 1.5 extension it must be fine.
But i have decide for me, that the wide angel lens of my equipment is the 35mm and i have only work with this lens in combination with the HTS.
:)

(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffc05.deviantart.net%2Ffs70%2Ff%2F2012%2F035%2Fd%2F3%2Fd3f4da465ff2f35648685056e7152874-d4oozyl.jpg&hash=dade4d26438de7e56b1a80c89b32a6990a1f2f5f)

HTS 1.5 + 80
ƒ16 50 ISO


First attempt at portraiture with HTS... It was easier than I imagined to get the mic and eyes on the same plane.  I'll be using this setup more consistently.

MW, nice Portrait! What for a movement you had to do with the HTS? Tilting down? I still a bit confused and dont use it much... thanks, rem

Rem - can't speak for him, but I suspect that he tilted the adapter forward. For any lens and camera combination, there is a 'plane of sharp focus', this is the plane in the subject which is brought into focus as you focus the lens. With a traditional SLR, the lens does not tilt, to the plane of sharp focus is parallel to the film plane. When you tilt a lens forward using the movements of a view camera, or by using the HTS adapter on the Hasselblad, you tilt the plane of sharp focus in the direction of the lens tilt.

The tilt of the plane of sharp focus is considerably more than the tilt of the lens. Ie, a tilt with the HTS adapter of 2 degrees will tilt the plane of sharp focus more than 2 degrees.

From what I gather, the HTS adapter uses axial tilt instead of base tilt.

More info here:

http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/HMbooks3.html#SRpic
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/how-to-focus.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/View_camera

There's an

Thank you Jonathan for your explanatorys, thats what I thought with "tilting down". I know about in the theory but should really take me more time to use it! Also many thanks for the Links!
remo

Thanks REM. Jonathan is correct. It was purely a visual estimated tilt. I didn't use the HTS much either for a while but once you wrap your head around it, you'll wonder how we ever fully accepted rigid plane cameras.
MW

I must say theres some great work been done with the HTS amazing.

Is anyone using it as drop focus for portraiture? I'd like to see some examples if you have.
I used to shoot everything with drop focus, I know stupid but I'm considering going back to it just a bit.

I've been doing some work for GE and this video caught my eye....I've nothing to do with this really nice piece of work. I like the engineer with the aircraft engine and I'm hopefully doing a shoot like this soon, I can't decide if the drop is done in post or they are using real camera movements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2MIIbuJ4Gc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Kind regards

Monty

Thanks MW and Monthy, I will really invest more time to use this nice part. Also for portraiture, I saw some cool head shots i a exhibition (not sure, made with the HTS).
lg, rem

Question for HTS1.5 users who use shift for stitching:

I have a Horseman SWD-II with the Schneider 24mm f5.6 APO-Digitar XL lens and I need to do LCC for each shifted capture. Is this required with the HTS 1.5 or does Phocus correct for this in software?

I'm not sure what you mean by LCC - when using the HTS on a Hasselblad, one shoots a calibration image to correct for falloff and color shift, which is most pronounced when using shift. Not so noticable with tilt.

I do quite a bit of stitching with the HTS and shoot a calibration image for each shot. Sometimes I forget and simply shoot one in the studio with similar t/s settings. Under similar lighting conditions, the color shift is fairly consistent.

So, if I set the HTS to a particular t/s setting on a shoot, I will shoot a frame with a piece of opaque plexi over the lens. In Phocus, I use this to create a calibration image that can be applied to any image shot under those conditions with that t/s setting.

Yep. What you just explained was basically setting up an LCC profile. Aside from the Hasseblad, I also shoot with a Horseman SWD-II with the 24mm Schneider APO-Digitar XL and an Aptus 54S back in V mount. When shooting with the Horseman, I need to use the white plexi (an LCC- see http://www.captureintegration.com/store/phase-one-accessories/) to measure and correct light falloff (vignetting) and color casts, which I do in Capture One Pro 6.3.

We're talking about the same thing, so now I understand that the HTS 1.5 will require an LCC profile for each shot (which is fine) :)

Thanks!

Derek is correct. You only need to shoot a calibration image if your have noticable color shifts in your images. This may vary with a particular lens, shift or lighting situation. I do a lot of shift in my images, and so shiit caikbration as a matter of coure. Your milage may vary.

From what I understand, color shifts are more likely to happen with wider lenses than longer ones. I haven't tried it myself, but I was under the impression that LCC was required. Derek's experience seems to be otherwise, which is good news for me :)

Most definitely will post examples. Wont be in my stuio for a few days, though. Certainly by monday if not sooner.

Here is an example with a large amount of shift, which has created a noticeable green/magenta shift. The image parameters are:
H3d39ii with HTS and HC 50mm lens, bright summer sunlight.
HTS settings: tilt: 0; shift: -10.8; rotation:0
ISO 100
1/30th at f/32

Processed out of Phocus with no sharpening applied. JPEGS are below. Full tiffs are available at: http://www.jlipkin.com/temp/shift.zip

Here's a video from Hasselblad on scene correction:

http://htv.hasselblad.com/video/scene-calibration-tool?current-channel=education-training&page=18

The Hasselblad tech I spoke with told me to create the calibration with a piece of translucent plexiglas, and to open up about two stops from the auto exposure reading - Phocus likes it to be about 1-2 stops from 18% gray.

H4d-40 with 28mm + HTS 1.5

Did somebody try the HTS with the new version of the HC 50mm lens? How are the results?

Some background explanations to my question:
On the Hasselblad site, there is a pdf with mtf curves (http://www.hasselblad.com/media/1332322/uk_hts_datasheet_v7.pdf) for various lenses used with the HTS. The MTF curves with some lenses (HC 35mm and 50mm) look rather poor and the legend to the curve with the HC 50mm says it is version II. However, an older document (http://www.hasselblad.com/media/1799461/hc_lens_book_v2.pdf) uses exactly the same mtf curve but says it is version I. The legend about "version II" is obviously an error and we do not have the curve with the new lens.

Quote from: Derek Jecxz on June 15, 2011, 02:39:39 PM
28mm + HTS + .6 ND + .9 ND Grad, f51 @ 1:21
(https://www.hasselbladdigitalforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jecxz.com%2Fimages%2Fetc%2F850066_A1209395.jpg&hash=1e01d6bb4ec41d16aff450c45607b0c709217e8b)

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com

Hi Derek, very nice pictures ! How did you manage to shoot for 81 seconds if it was done with the H3DII-39 ? I thought it was limited to 64 seconds.

lucky you !  :)

Just a quick note: if you want to shoot for 80 seconds on a back that only allows 60, make two exposures of 40s and merge them in post...

Hasselblad says that the 120 macro cannot be used with the HTS. I wondered whether they meant that it would give bad results or whether it would not mount physically. I tried it to day: the lens will not mount physically, the lens barrel is too wide. I thought that some people may want to know...

merci jérôme :) en plus j'ai les deux et j'ai jamais essayé  ;D ;D

Hi All,

I've got an HTS 1.5 recently and pretty happy with that, except on little thing - attached to H4D50 with 28mm, no lens shade, and with full 18mm shift in landscape position for panorama, it starts making quite a vignetting. Here come 2 questions:
1) Does anyone else experience the same?
2) What about 24mm? Does it produce vignetting with HTS? It's also HCD lens and while I was planning to get it in the future, I have some reasonable doubts about it

Cheers,
Mike

On a 50 mpix sensor, the HCD 28mm will show a slight corner vignette at max shift (±18mm), but Phocus corrects it if you check "lens corrections". I tested at f/8, maybe vignetting  is worse full open.

Jerome

Could you please explain how you merge for long exposures. If I want a 5 minute exposure do I overexpose all the frames?

Shaun

You take 5 frames of 1", correctly exposed, and merge them as layers with an opacity of 20% (20=100/5).

Edit: the correct values for merging 5 images are 1, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4 and 1/5, so 100%, 50%, 33%, 25% and 20%. My mistake.

Jerome

ok Thanks for that will give it a go.

Shaun

This is a sample of the HCD 4.8/24 on the HTS. The lens is shifted 11.5 mm. The pictures is scaled down by 50%.

Hi everyone

I have tried to use the HTS twice before but gave up due to focus errors.  Now that I have an H6D I thought that I would try again and wow!  The new live view with a loupe on the back screen is brilliant - highly recommended as a must have accessory if you shoot, food, product or architecture.

Thanks David, I'll definitely rent one just for that reason alone, and try it out.