Could your results be due to slight focus shift?

Good morning,

I have just ventured into Hasselblad and received a second hand XCD 35-75 lens. Yesterday when shooting with the XD2 and the lens I noticed that the lens does not appear to focus manually - when I set the camera to MF and I turn the focusing ring the image never gets sharp. Also the ring seems to constantly turn (i.e. it doesn't stop when it reaches its focusing limit). It focuses with no problems in AF.

As this is my first venture into Hasselblad I just want to ask if I am missing something before I look at returning the lens to the seller?

Many thanks.

Kind regards,

Paul

The XCD 25mm f/2.5V is going back to B&H tomorrow and not something, after too many lenses to count, that I have done. Let me explain why and please don't take this as anything more than an n=1 opinion. Comparisons included the XCD 21mm f/4 and 38mm f/2.5, on or off a RRS tripod, auto or manual focus, VR on or off, and camera was zoomed from the 38mm to 25mm to 21mm on my feet to the same relative image sizes as I would in RL. I judged sharpness largely at infinity of a landscape with wood and brick structures near the edges. The amazing 21mm lens was sharp f4 - f8 center and edges and as Vieri Bottazzini said in his blog "draws as beautifully as any ... if not better". The 38mm f/2.5 held its own compared to the 21mm when stopped down a bit to f4.

All good so far, but the 21mm f/2.5 was soft in the center and edges and remained so until f/8 and even then never equaled the 21mm or 38mm for sharpness try as I might to eliminate any errors in focusing, vibration, etc. Everything else about the the new 25mm is great; build quality, focus clutch I love, color, freedom from flare, and zero chromatic aberration. Maybe I had a poor copy or maybe the XCD 21mm and newer XCD 38mm set the bar too high. If there are more positive reviews, I may try another copy. Cheers

Thanks for everyone's comments. I would imagine the more telephoto you get, the face detect will work better. I was wondering about at the other end with the 25v and it being better glass? and faster lens vs the 28P. It seems you have to be uncomfortably close with a wide angle for the face detect feature to kick in

I don't have the 80/1.9, but I just tried it with the 135/2.8. It did a pretty good job with my glasses off. With glasses on it, like every other face-detect I've tried, focuses on the glasses. I can do THAT with ordinary AF. 

Sadly, using Phocus as a remote turns face-detect off, so I had to use a mirror.

I've seeked advise how best to handle HB post processing, and have given up searching for a simple route that doesn't require a lengthy workflow with 2 different editors, Phocus and Luminar Neo.

Perhaps like many, HB isn't the only camera system being used, and DNG handling is required. Preference on my end isn't to use Phocus for editing of non-HB files.

For key HB photos, running through Phocus and output into tiff for full color retention before using Luminar Neo to finalize is current approach. For others, running through Adobe DNG Converter, output into DNG for Luminar Neo is workflow; fully understand those HB files will not have all adjustments intact, albeit they are not far out of whack.

With the 80mm at aperture 1.9, the face detection focuses precisely on the pupil and the veins in the eyeball.

Quote from: Patrick CM on Today at 06:57:18 AMTry

Go to 'File' then 'Export' and choose 'Export As'. In the dialog box, select 'JPEG' as the format. You'll see several options to tweak.

Thank you. I will give this a try "export and save a copy"

Try

Go to 'File' then 'Export' and choose 'Export As'. In the dialog box, select 'JPEG' as the format. You'll see several options to tweak.

use 'save a copy'.

This is just how photoshop is doing this. Not a X2D filebug.