Hi there,
For me, tilt-shift is important. So I have been researching options that go around on the internet. I finally have been able to make my Schneider Kreuznach 28mm Tilt/Shift f4.5work with my X2d.
Even though the lens has a Nikon adapter, the image circle is large enough to accommodate the X2D's sensor with enough shift and tilt. The biggest problem was finding an adapter that worked. None did. Mostly due to the fact that the inner diameter was too small, so 'hard' vignetting would take place. I managed to adjust the Novoflex N/XD adapter by taking out the inner mechanics (didn't' need the f-stop adjustment), honing out the inner diameter and blackening it out so there wouldn't be any reflection. Now I can finally use it!. It is heavy but I like what comes out of it.
Some vignetting takes place, but nothing unsolvable. I can use 90% of it's shifting capability safely.
The attached photo is an unedited raw image with 90% shifting straight out of the camera (resolution doesn't do it justice).
Thank you for this nice adapter modification idea, as no current X system adapter works properly with any Nikon F glass due to too small exit diameter.
This is the set-up
This is what I took out in terms of diameter increase
Mid grinding
I guess this could be done by a mechanic on a lathe ?
Nice setup!
I went in a differente direction. Pentax 67 lenses with Kipon tilt&shift P67/XD adapter (I use the 45mm and 55mm lenses), PC Super-Angulon 28mm for Nikon with adapter and finally Laowa 20mm Zero D Shift with Nikon/XD adapter (maximum 8mm shift).
I wonder why Hasselbled is not releasing a native t&s lens ...
The native Hasselblad tilt shift exists for the X system, it's the fabulous HTS used with many compatible H lenses with each H lens giving on X cameras 2 different focal length with HX adapter or HX converter, and all solutions with leaf shutter up tp 1/2000s (with orange dot H lenses)
https://youtu.be/msD4OOEJU-w
I'self went the cheap simple way, with the M645 Mamiya Sekor C 50mm shift lens on an adapter and electronic shutter.
This lens is extremely sharp with a huge shift range
hc 300mm x converter 0.8 x HTS 1.4 = 360mm focal lens with tilt on the X1DII for awsome portraits !!!
https://youtu.be/dzU9h1I_uCE
1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.
2. Rogeti makes a beautiful rig for adapting a Canon 24mm TS lens to the X body. It works in conjunction with a Techart adapter. And...as a bonus, the Rogeti mounts to the lens shaft so that the camera body shifts back & forth while the lens remains still on a tripod. This produces more accurate stitching than when one moves the lens.
3. Laowa makes a great 20mm Shift lens (no Tilt) for about half the price of a Nikon or Canon TS lens. A friend owns one, and her images are spectacular. Laowa offers an optional rotating lens mount that also allows the lens to remain still while the camera does the shifting. They make and adapter for the Fuji GFX cameras, and they also mention the X1D in their ads. I'm trying to contact them to verify if there is one available in the XCD mount. But even if not, you could mount their 20mm shift lens with a Canon or Nikon adapter.
I just did an interesting test.
1) Shoot 9 frames on tripod with Mamiya 645 50mm/4 Shift lens
2) Shoot 9 frames hand-held with XCD 45
All frames 1/250, f/8, ISO 100. Stitched them both. Perspective corrected, matched colors and contrast.
Verdict:
in the center, the Mamiya was a bit sharper (it *was* on a tripod).
Everywhere else, the XCD 45 stitch had more detail. Sometimes drastically so.
These are 100% crops on 13,000x13,000 pixel images!
XCD 45 on left, Mamiya 50 on right
BTW, I'm not arguing against shift lenses. I loved using a tech camera. This is more a comment on modern optics and 100MP sensors. It's also possible I have a bad copy of the 50, or it doesn't adapt well to the X2D.
Quote from: MGrayson on January 17, 2023, 06:57:54 AM
I just did an interesting test.
1) Shoot 9 frames on tripod with Mamiya 645 50mm/4 Shift lens
2) Shoot 9 frames hand-held with XCD 45
All frames 1/250, f/8, ISO 100. Stitched them both. Perspective corrected, matched colors and contrast.
Verdict:
in the center, the Mamiya was a bit sharper (it *was* on a tripod).
Everywhere else, the XCD 45 stitch had more detail. Sometimes drastically so.
These are 100% crops on 13,000x13,000 pixel images!
XCD 45 on left, Mamiya 50 on right
BTW, I'm not arguing against shift lenses. I loved using a tech camera. This is more a comment on modern optics and 100MP sensors. It's also possible I have a bad copy of the 50, or it doesn't adapt well to the X2D.
I can only compare at 50 Mpix,
I found really a tiny difference in finest details @100% between my Mamiya 50 Shift and the XCD45 in favor of the XCD but a bit more difference in micro contrast.
And after post in Phocus no visible difference on a large print.
I guess your 50 shift or adapter has a problem, why is your whole frame a square ?
Quote from: Michael H. Cothran on January 16, 2023, 06:12:09 PM
1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.
Interesting set up, but how can you make it work?
PC-E lenses have electronic aperture, once upu mount them on a Novoflex adapter you cannot change aperture. You need a separate Nikon body with electrical aperture contacts to change the aperture, than unmount from the Nikon and mount on the adapter. Not a practical solution indeed.
Or, did you find a better solution?
If you can afford to work with a fixed aperture on the adapter, say for example f:11 (or any other aperture) there is a workaround with Nikon E lenses
Sandro you forgot a step
Here how to do it:
- mount the lens on a Nikon body
- select the aperture you want to use it
- press the depth of field preview button and maintain it
- while maintaining the DOF button remove the lens from the body (without turning the camera off)
Now the aperture remains stuck to the selected aperture and you can use it on an adapter
The aperture remains stuck until you mount it again on a Nikon camera you turn on.
I use a lot my Nikkor fisheye zoom 8-15 that is able to give a 180° diagonal angle on the square cropped (33x33) X1D what is a unique feature in digital MF.
As the digital square format 33x33 is heavily cropped from 33x44 there is no vignetting in the pictures and the 180° diagonal can be easily adjusted with the zoom ring and the outlined square in the viewfinder.
Most of the time my Nikkor 8-15 is in my Hasselblad bag, stuck at f:11 on a Novoflex adapter
Quote from: JCM-Photos on January 17, 2023, 08:11:32 AM
Quote from: MGrayson on January 17, 2023, 06:57:54 AM
I just did an interesting test.
1) Shoot 9 frames on tripod with Mamiya 645 50mm/4 Shift lens
2) Shoot 9 frames hand-held with XCD 45
All frames 1/250, f/8, ISO 100. Stitched them both. Perspective corrected, matched colors and contrast.
Verdict:
in the center, the Mamiya was a bit sharper (it *was* on a tripod).
Everywhere else, the XCD 45 stitch had more detail. Sometimes drastically so.
These are 100% crops on 13,000x13,000 pixel images!
XCD 45 on left, Mamiya 50 on right
BTW, I'm not arguing against shift lenses. I loved using a tech camera. This is more a comment on modern optics and 100MP sensors. It's also possible I have a bad copy of the 50, or it doesn't adapt well to the X2D.
I can only compare at 50 Mpix,
I found really a tiny difference in finest details @100% between my Mamiya 50 Shift and the XCD45 in favor of the XCD but a bit more difference in micro contrast.
And after post in Phocus no visible difference on a large print.
I guess your 50 shift or adapter has a problem, why is your whole frame a square ?
I took square crops of the panoramas. No real reason. The Mamiya is really beautiful near the center - I worked hard to get the 45 to match its rendering! I don't know where the problem lies. I've noticed that adapted lenses have a lot more fringing on the X2D than on the S3. But if it's the lens, camera, adapter, or user, I'm not sure, and it would take a long time to figure out. I also notice that I can't quite focus at infinity with this adapter. At f/8, infinity is sharp, but it suggests a sub-par adapter.
I also have a question related to the use of non XCD (so manual) lenses. How do you guys use/control the spod-meter in manual or aperture priority mode? In my case I can tab the screen to move the metering spot, but it doesn't show a circle on the back screen (*like it does with XCD lenses). So I don't know where I am metering related to the image. Next to that, metering seems very crude in the sense of it changing in very big steps (where I want to do subtle changes). Do any of you experience the same issue?
Quote from: Sandro on January 17, 2023, 09:33:33 AM
Quote from: Michael H. Cothran on January 16, 2023, 06:12:09 PM
1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.
Interesting set up, but how can you make it work?
PC-E lenses have electronic aperture, once upu mount them on a Novoflex adapter you cannot change aperture. You need a separate Nikon body with electrical aperture contacts to change the aperture, than unmount from the Nikon and mount on the adapter. Not a practical solution indeed.
Or, did you find a better solution?
Novoflex makes an adapter which allows you to adjust the aperture via the adapter. It does not indicate what actual f-stop you're using, so I adjust it to the middle range, so I can presume I am shooting in the neighborhood of f8 or f11. Whatever my aperture, it's plenty sharp, and good DOF. I believe there is one other adapter that will allow aperture changes also, maybe the Techart.
In all candor, I normally use the PC-E lens on a Nikon D850 body, but sometimes it's just fun to play with on the X2D.
I did consider using the HTS adapter, but the adapter+HC24mm lens cost over $13,000, and could not find any from used markets.
I could buy a new Fuji GFX 100s+their new 30mm TS lens for less money. And in all candor, I'm considering it!!
Quote from: Michael H. Cothran on January 19, 2023, 10:08:25 AM
Quote from: Sandro on January 17, 2023, 09:33:33 AM
Quote from: Michael H. Cothran on January 16, 2023, 06:12:09 PM
1. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E lens adapted to the X1D/X2D via a Novoflex adapter. Rise & falls are fine, but horizontal shifts do have a bit of vignetting after 8mm of shifting.
Interesting set up, but how can you make it work?
PC-E lenses have electronic aperture, once upu mount them on a Novoflex adapter you cannot change aperture. You need a separate Nikon body with electrical aperture contacts to change the aperture, than unmount from the Nikon and mount on the adapter. Not a practical solution indeed.
Or, did you find a better solution?
Novoflex makes an adapter which allows you to adjust the aperture via the adapter. It does not indicate what actual f-stop you're using, so I adjust it to the middle range, so I can presume I am shooting in the neighborhood of f8 or f11. Whatever my aperture, it's plenty sharp, and good DOF. I believe there is one other adapter that will allow aperture changes also, maybe the Techart.
In all candor, I normally use the PC-E lens on a Nikon D850 body, but sometimes it's just fun to play with on the X2D.
I did consider using the HTS adapter, but the adapter+HC24mm lens cost over $13,000, and could not find any from used markets.
I could buy a new Fuji GFX 100s+their new 30mm TS lens for less money. And in all candor, I'm considering it!!
I do have a Novoflex adapter, but the aperture closing flange is mechanical, it doesn't work with the pce lenses, where the aperture is in fact electronic. Are you sure you are not simply shooting at full aperture? Exposure could be right, also depth of focus at large distances could be enought with a 24mm, so it could be an acceptable solution depending on the pictures you want to take.
I can only find in the Novofles catalog the HAX/NIK adapter that is not able to control the aperture of Nikon E lenses !
This adapter is for non E lenses and controls only manually the mechanical aperture preselection on non G lenses and a guessed aperture value on G lenses
The only way to use an E lens on this adapter is to use the workaround blocking the aperture on a chosen fixed value on a Nikon body before mounting it on the adapter.
This adapter gives heavy mount vignetting with all Nikon F glass. I use it for MP square cropped images where there is no vignetting. My favorite Nikon lens on this adapter is the Nikon fisheye zoom with the focal length fitted to the 33x33 cropped sensor format.
Does anyone know what the Mamiya 645 50mm lens would be equivalent to on the X2D? I'm also wondering about the Pentax 45mm and 55mm. I'm needing a wider angle tilt shift for the X2D but getting confused about the focal length conversions from these cameras to the Hasselblad. Can anyone explain? Thank you!!
Quote from: yvette on February 19, 2024, 12:26:41 PMDoes anyone know what the Mamiya 645 50mm lens would be equivalent to on the X2D? I'm also wondering about the Pentax 45mm and 55mm. I'm needing a wider angle tilt shift for the X2D but getting confused about the focal length conversions from these cameras to the Hasselblad. Can anyone explain? Thank you!!
The focal lengths don't change. It's a 50mm lens with shift. I have one, and my copy is not great (I've ordered another one). It's fine unshifted, but gets smeared in the corners with small amounts of shift. The best wide angle solution I've found is the Pentax 645 35mm A (manual focus only) lens on a tilt-shift adapter. The Mamiya 645 35mm lens is also not great (again, my copy). For adapted 645 lenses, I'd go Pentax 645 for lenses 150mm and shorter, and Mamiya 645 for anything longer (or any ULD or APO lens). Ok, the Pentax 645 400/5.6 ED-IF is sharp and light. Old Hasselblad V lenses and Pentax 67 lenses also work well, but the former are more expensive and the latter are heavy.
Thank you for the info. This helps a lot. I appreciate it! :). Btw - I just got an email from Laowa that they are planning to release a 15mm and 20mm tilt shift lens for the X2D later this year.
Quote from: yvette on February 20, 2024, 07:33:19 AMThank you for the info. This helps a lot. I appreciate it! :). Btw - I just got an email from Laowa that they are planning to release a 15mm and 20mm tilt shift lens for the X2D later this year.
That's good news. I had the 17mm Laowa for the GFX and it was a very good lens. Their early 15mm shift lens wasn't as sharp, but I think they've updated its optical design.
Will Hasselblad release a X-system version of the H-system HTS 1.5 tilt shift adapter (https://www.hasselblad.com/h-system/accessories/hts-15-tilt-and-shift-adapter/)?
I'm considering building out a setup for my X2D using the H-system adapter as shown in this mathphotographer video:
Quote from: yvette on February 20, 2024, 07:33:19 AMThank you for the info. This helps a lot. I appreciate it! :). Btw - I just got an email from Laowa that they are planning to release a 15mm and 20mm tilt shift lens for the X2D later this year.
Does anyone happen to know if such a lens would/could have a built in central shutter? My gut feeling says no ... (Without an in-lens-shutter it could only be used with e-shutter, which I would like to avoid.)
Quote from: mar-ko on February 21, 2024, 01:10:49 AMQuote from: yvette on February 20, 2024, 07:33:19 AMThank you for the info. This helps a lot. I appreciate it! :). Btw - I just got an email from Laowa that they are planning to release a 15mm and 20mm tilt shift lens for the X2D later this year.
Does anyone happen to know if such a lens would/could have a built in central shutter? My gut feeling says no ... (Without an in-lens-shutter it could only be used with e-shutter, which I would like to avoid.)
Disclaimer: I have no real info.
I'd be surprised if it did anything more than communicate its focal length to the camera. And even that's not a given. I'd still get the 20mm if it were sharp when shifted, even if it were fully manual. IBIS makes the ES usable, if not ideal, hand-held. I don't shoot a lot of moving subjects that wide anyway.
Has anyone tried the Canon TS-E24 mm f3.5 II lens with a TECHART TCX-01 autofocus adapter?
Is there a TS lens built for medium format cameras that will fit on the X2D?
Quote from: Mudlup on February 23, 2024, 02:06:55 AMIs there a TS lens built for medium format cameras that will fit on the X2D?
I know of some shift lenses, but not tilt/shift. The Mamiya 645 50mm shift and the Pentax 67 75mm shift. There's probably a Hartblei that would connect.
I ordered this thing. Unfortunately it's probably still stuck at customs. I would like to use it with the 50 Distagon for tilting. I'm looking forward to the results.
Hartblei 8° TILT Adapter Hasselblad V Lens to Hasselblad X1D X2D 907X Camera gibt's bei eBay!
https://www.ebay.de/itm/285016441728?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=l93mJGnkS8K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4sB79xqPS2u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL
Matt I very much doubt it.
I was involved in the development of the HTS and it was a seriously complicated thing to achieve, I suspect that's it's just too niche a product.
Follow-up on the Mamiya 645 50mm shift lens. I got a second copy that was much better. I'd not hesitate to use it for architecture or panoramas. Disclaimer: I tested it at 12mm shift. I'll go again at 16mm and see how the quality drops off.
Here is the edge of the old copy - the red line marks the edge of the unshifted image.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53549884679_dc28b90dc8_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/131284125@N08/3M86Bc7p22)
Here's the same for the new copy
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53549745853_3bf79b7fdf_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/131284125@N08/47B8Rf3R6w)
Both at f/11 on an X2D, crops are 1200 pixels wide, so likely larger on screen.
Alas, older lenses can have histories.
Matt
Edit: I repeated the experiment with newer lens and 15mm shifts. tl;dr - Sharp to 10mm at f/11, starts to blur a bit beyond that
Whole pano:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53553712011_a1ce8d20c0_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/131284125@N08/pK76yL8g88)
1200 pixel crops
10mm shift at the green line (sorry, bad light)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554011169_a298699d81_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/131284125@N08/P6057k7E2h)
15mm shift. Remember, this is from a 4 meter wide print at this magnification.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53553666151_0b998ebdda_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/131284125@N08/Xy5xyAUz8x)
Ok, here's a real photo and not a test. X2D, Mamiya 645 50mm shift lens at f/11. Late afternoon.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53554738843_8b9a1d105b_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAs33g)
Matt
Quote from: MGrayson on February 19, 2024, 12:44:58 PMQuote from: yvette on February 19, 2024, 12:26:41 PMDoes anyone know what the Mamiya 645 50mm lens would be equivalent to on the X2D? I'm also wondering about the Pentax 45mm and 55mm. I'm needing a wider angle tilt shift for the X2D but getting confused about the focal length conversions from these cameras to the Hasselblad. Can anyone explain? Thank you!!
The focal lengths don't change. It's a 50mm lens with shift. I have one, and my copy is not great (I've ordered another one). It's fine unshifted, but gets smeared in the corners with small amounts of shift. The best wide angle solution I've found is the Pentax 645 35mm A (manual focus only) lens on a tilt-shift adapter. The Mamiya 645 35mm lens is also not great (again, my copy). For adapted 645 lenses, I'd go Pentax 645 for lenses 150mm and shorter, and Mamiya 645 for anything longer (or any ULD or APO lens). Ok, the Pentax 645 400/5.6 ED-IF is sharp and light. Old Hasselblad V lenses and Pentax 67 lenses also work well, but the former are more expensive and the latter are heavy.
I'm assuming you have to use the Electronic Shutter for either of these lenses, the Pentax 67 or Mamiya? Thanks!
Quote from: yvette on February 28, 2024, 05:41:23 AMQuote from: MGrayson on February 19, 2024, 12:44:58 PMQuote from: yvette on February 19, 2024, 12:26:41 PMDoes anyone know what the Mamiya 645 50mm lens would be equivalent to on the X2D? I'm also wondering about the Pentax 45mm and 55mm. I'm needing a wider angle tilt shift for the X2D but getting confused about the focal length conversions from these cameras to the Hasselblad. Can anyone explain? Thank you!!
The focal lengths don't change. It's a 50mm lens with shift. I have one, and my copy is not great (I've ordered another one). It's fine unshifted, but gets smeared in the corners with small amounts of shift. The best wide angle solution I've found is the Pentax 645 35mm A (manual focus only) lens on a tilt-shift adapter. The Mamiya 645 35mm lens is also not great (again, my copy). For adapted 645 lenses, I'd go Pentax 645 for lenses 150mm and shorter, and Mamiya 645 for anything longer (or any ULD or APO lens). Ok, the Pentax 645 400/5.6 ED-IF is sharp and light. Old Hasselblad V lenses and Pentax 67 lenses also work well, but the former are more expensive and the latter are heavy.
I'm assuming you have to use the Electronic Shutter for either of these lenses, the Pentax 67 or Mamiya? Thanks!
Yep. Electronic shutter only. IBIS makes that merely annoying and not fatal. Or a tripod helps.
I have tilt-shift lenses in the Nikon System. However, for my X2D, I use a technical camera, that Cambo Actus Mini G which has a plate that will accept the X2D camera, and you can put whatever you want on the other end. I have a number of Large Format lenses that I use and the results are very good using the X2D's 100 mpx sensor. While tilt-shift lenses do tilt and shift, they are nowhere near close to what we can do with a technical camera. Here is a photo of the Night Blooming Cereus in the Nikon system.
The variant of a tilt or shift adapter that uses Hasselblad V 6x6 lenses has the advantage that these lenses have sufficient image circle available. The disadvantage is that 40 or 50mm focal length on the Hasselblad x is not really wide-angle. That's why I find these shift adapters rather uninteresting. But I have the Hartblei tilt adapter with the 50mm Distagon. The tilt mechanism can be operated precisely using the gear screw. The cyan focus peaking shows that the focus is on the front edge of the cabinet. You can also pan in opposite directions to reduce the field of focus and get a look like a macro photo.