Full Auto Parameters

[boojum]

Yes, but, . . .   There is a difference between JPG images at FULL AUTO and other exposure profiles as JPG's.  If we ever get some sort of weather that does not involve vertical water I will get out and test the differences between JPG's.  I would think that I should be able to dial in f-stop and shutter speed and ISO to get exactly the same results I get with FULL AUTO.  I will see how that works.  After all, half the fun of the camera is screwing around with it.  ;o)

[boojum]

Let me go back and repost the original problem: can FULL AUTO be modified?  I shoot that mode because I shoot stuff which often is quick shot stuff, like almost street photography, in and around the boatyards of my coastal area.  The luxury of setting exposure parameters manually escapes me for the most part.  So I am wedded to FULL AUTO.  I do shoot both RAW (3FR) and JPG but the RAW images are stored and very rarely used.  What the camera software does to create the JPG is quite likely smarter than what I would do.  And I am quite happy with the settings as they are but wonder if greater depth-of-field can be managed, etc.

[MGrayson]

As far as I know, the ONLY ways to get greater DoF from a given camera are to use
Aperture priority,
Manual,
P with shift,
a lens with a smaller maximum aperture,
or a crop from an image taken with a wider angle lens.

Ok, focus stacking, but now we're getting ridiculous....

[mikeinpa]

Have you considered Auto ISO. You select Auto ISO with a low value and a high value. Switch to Manual Mode where you select the relevant Aperture for your required depth of field. You select the relevant Shutter speed for your subject (if it's moving or stationary). The ISO value will float up or down within the High and Low values to maintain the correct exposure. I use this method all the time when photographing wildlife. For a slower moving subject I only need a slower shutter speed which keeps the ISO value low but if I suddenly need a much faster shutter speed it's simply a turn of the rear dial and the ISO increases accordingly.

Using the method earlier this year got me this shot of a Hummingbird.
http://mikes-photographs.blogspot.com/2022/05/perseverance.html

[SrMi]

Have you considered Auto ISO. You select Auto ISO with a low value and a high value. Switch to Manual Mode where you select the relevant Aperture for your required depth of field. You select the relevant Shutter speed for your subject (if it's moving or stationary). The ISO value will float up or down within the High and Low values to maintain the correct exposure. I use this method all the time when photographing wildlife. For a slower moving subject I only need a slower shutter speed which keeps the ISO value low but if I suddenly need a much faster shutter speed it's simply a turn of the rear dial and the ISO increases accordingly.

Using the method earlier this year got me this shot of a Hummingbird.
http://mikes-photographs.blogspot.com/2022/05/perseverance.html

Unfortunately, Hasselblad cameras do not support Auto ISO in M mode.
My workaround is to assign "Auto ISO Settings" to the M button, which lets me relatively quickly change the lower shutter speed limit.

[mikeinpa]

Have you considered Auto ISO. You select Auto ISO with a low value and a high value. Switch to Manual Mode where you select the relevant Aperture for your required depth of field. You select the relevant Shutter speed for your subject (if it's moving or stationary). The ISO value will float up or down within the High and Low values to maintain the correct exposure. I use this method all the time when photographing wildlife. For a slower moving subject I only need a slower shutter speed which keeps the ISO value low but if I suddenly need a much faster shutter speed it's simply a turn of the rear dial and the ISO increases accordingly.

Using the method earlier this year got me this shot of a Hummingbird.
http://mikes-photographs.blogspot.com/2022/05/perseverance.html

Unfortunately, Hasselblad cameras do not support Auto ISO in M mode.
My workaround is to assign "Auto ISO Settings" to the M button, which lets me relatively quickly change the lower shutter speed limit.

Well that's a bummer. I've only had mine for a couple of weeks so I haven't discovered that yet. I'm certainly not going to use it for wildlife so it's no hardship for me fortunately. Pity because that works great on my Nikon's.

[SrMi]

Have you considered Auto ISO. You select Auto ISO with a low value and a high value. Switch to Manual Mode where you select the relevant Aperture for your required depth of field. You select the relevant Shutter speed for your subject (if it's moving or stationary). The ISO value will float up or down within the High and Low values to maintain the correct exposure. I use this method all the time when photographing wildlife. For a slower moving subject I only need a slower shutter speed which keeps the ISO value low but if I suddenly need a much faster shutter speed it's simply a turn of the rear dial and the ISO increases accordingly.

Using the method earlier this year got me this shot of a Hummingbird.
http://mikes-photographs.blogspot.com/2022/05/perseverance.html

Unfortunately, Hasselblad cameras do not support Auto ISO in M mode.
My workaround is to assign "Auto ISO Settings" to the M button, which lets me relatively quickly change the lower shutter speed limit.

Well that's a bummer. I've only had mine for a couple of weeks so I haven't discovered that yet. I'm certainly not going to use it for wildlife so it's no hardship for me fortunately. Pity because that works great on my Nikon's.

I am also used to Auto-ISO in M mode, but my suggestion works well enough and has the advantage that you cannot overexpose because the shutter speed is too slow. The only disadvantage is that changing the shutter speed is slow (button press and selection).

[jwillson]

Let me go back and repost the original problem: can FULL AUTO be modified?  I shoot that mode because I shoot stuff which often is quick shot stuff, like almost street photography, in and around the boatyards of my coastal area.  The luxury of setting exposure parameters manually escapes me for the most part.  So I am wedded to FULL AUTO.  I do shoot both RAW (3FR) and JPG but the RAW images are stored and very rarely used.  What the camera software does to create the JPG is quite likely smarter than what I would do.  And I am quite happy with the settings as they are but wonder if greater depth-of-field can be managed, etc.

No, Full Auto is exactly that—fully auto. You can't even make the program shift or over/under exposure choices that you get in Program mode. Camera chooses everything in Full Auto, hence the name of the mode.

[boojum]

Let me go back and repost the original problem: can FULL AUTO be modified?  I shoot that mode because I shoot stuff which often is quick shot stuff, like almost street photography, in and around the boatyards of my coastal area.  The luxury of setting exposure parameters manually escapes me for the most part.  So I am wedded to FULL AUTO.  I do shoot both RAW (3FR) and JPG but the RAW images are stored and very rarely used.  What the camera software does to create the JPG is quite likely smarter than what I would do.  And I am quite happy with the settings as they are but wonder if greater depth-of-field can be managed, etc.

No, Full Auto is exactly that—fully auto. You can't even make the program shift or over/under exposure choices that you get in Program mode. Camera chooses everything in Full Auto, hence the name of the mode.

Hey, thanks for the definitive answer.  I had kinda hoped I could changed the outside parameters.  Well, I will just have to live with it as it is and try and hone my manual skills.

Thanks so much.

[tenmangu81]

Have you considered Auto ISO. You select Auto ISO with a low value and a high value. Switch to Manual Mode where you select the relevant Aperture for your required depth of field. You select the relevant Shutter speed for your subject (if it's moving or stationary). The ISO value will float up or down within the High and Low values to maintain the correct exposure. I use this method all the time when photographing wildlife. For a slower moving subject I only need a slower shutter speed which keeps the ISO value low but if I suddenly need a much faster shutter speed it's simply a turn of the rear dial and the ISO increases accordingly.

Using the method earlier this year got me this shot of a Hummingbird.
http://mikes-photographs.blogspot.com/2022/05/perseverance.html

Unfortunately, Hasselblad cameras do not support Auto ISO in M mode.
My workaround is to assign "Auto ISO Settings" to the M button, which lets me relatively quickly change the lower shutter speed limit.

Well that's a bummer. I've only had mine for a couple of weeks so I haven't discovered that yet. I'm certainly not going to use it for wildlife so it's no hardship for me fortunately. Pity because that works great on my Nikon's.

I am also used to Auto-ISO in M mode, but my suggestion works well enough and has the advantage that you cannot overexpose because the shutter speed is too slow. The only disadvantage is that changing the shutter speed is slow (button press and selection).

There is an other possibility with the "new" XCD**V lenses : you can customize the lens control ring to ISO. Then, choosing Aperture priority mode allows you to select the speed very quickly by rotating the lens control ring.

[boojum]

Yes, yes, yes, but to flog this poor dead horse one more time it is when shooting JPG's that I can see this difference.  I do know that the 3FR is the image just as it fell upon the sensor, unadorned.  What has seemed to me is that the Full Auto setting does a little more AI "magic" than any of the other settings.  But let me do some more side by side tests and see what I can come up with.  You all may be right, odds are about 10 to 1 in your favor, but I will poke around with it and see what I can demonstrate to myself.  There is a fine line between stubbornness and rigorous idiocy.  ;o)