True Exposure - on or off?

[BradP]

Just running through all my camera settings after a firmware update and I remain a little puzzled by how I should set "True Exposure" (on or off?).

I think I want this off at least for my style of shooting but could use others' thoughts.  This seems like a leaf shutter specific adjustment intended to compensate for the amount of time it takes for the leaf shutter to open and close.  While it might give highly regular exposure values, it appears from what I've read to accomplish that by modifying aperture and shutter speed in unknown ways in the background. My feeling is I care more about having my aperture fixed than I worry about having to nudge the exposure slider a little bit up or down in post, which I'll do anyway.  Also, it also looks like I need to switch this off to use flash, then back on when using natural light, which – knowing myself -- I will forget to do 1000 times.   Anyone have thoughts on why one might want the "true exposure" function and under what circumstances it makes a positive difference?

[Hassilistic]

Don't be too quick to dismiss it just yet!
Here is literature about it : http://static.hasselblad.com/2015/02/true_exposure_mode.pdf

Hope this helps.

[BradP]

Yep. Read that and a few more web pages. Still don't understand the benefit if one wants to focus with more precision. Thanks

[ChrisL]

Also, it also looks like I need to switch this off to use flash, then back on when using natural light, which – knowing myself -- I will forget to do 1000 times. 

The requirement to turn this function off on flash only applies when shooting at 1/800th with flash (presumably the top speed on the newer lenses with the faster shutter). Normally the speed is adjusted as the compensation not the aperture EXCEPT in the special circumstance of highest speed when it can't obviously go faster so at that point only is aperture changed which affects the flash exposure (but not the ambient)
This was a useful function with film particularly reversal where exposure accuracy was/is critical but I agree with digital it may be redundant but at f11 nearly a stop difference is significant and if you want consistency across a range of speeds it is obviously more accurate to use the in camera correction than guess in post or set to a grey card for each speed.
Conversely your argument to leave it off and adjust in post you can leave it on and adjust only the frames shot at 1/800th with flash, which way you choose will depend on how you work, how many frames do you shoot with flash at 1/800th?
Again following up your post aperture is only changed at 1/800th presumably you mean affecting DOF as focus point will remain the same, I am not aware of any significant focus point shift with the HC lenses on aperture changes but that is open to correction.