H6D

[bdp]

Testing the colours should be relatively simple. Take a H4D-40 and an H6D-50 (for example). Point the two cameras at the same thing, under various lights (for example: outside, by sunlight and under clouds). Compare the images.

I've done exactly that.

The H6D-50 colours were noticeably different. So I adjusted the WB and tint to try to match the H5D-40 and it was not possible. Endless tweaking of the individual R, G and B curves got it close, but not the same.

I don't understand why it is different. Doesn't Hasselblad just shoot a test chart when they have a new chip and make sure each colour on the test chart displays the colour they want, then bake in the profile? What happened to the 'Natural Colour Solution'?

Ben

[DBF]

I found this statement on the Phase One Site "CCD and CMOS possiblities":

With image quality, flexibility and professional choice being a priority at Phase One, we continue to ensure that the right tool is available for the right job.  The IQ3 Camera Systems provide options for CCD sensor technology or CMOS sensor technology.  If unmatched tonal subtlety and detail retention is a must, the IQ3 60MP and IQ3 80MP are a perfect fit.  If ISO flexibility and Live View workflow are needed, the IQ3 50MP and IQ3 100MP are at your disposal.

[davidthescot]

Testing the colours should be relatively simple. Take a H4D-40 and an H6D-50 (for example). Point the two cameras at the same thing, under various lights (for example: outside, by sunlight and under clouds). Compare the images.

I've done exactly that.

The H6D-50 colours were noticeably different. So I adjusted the WB and tint to try to match the H5D-40 and it was not possible. Endless tweaking of the individual R, G and B curves got it close, but not the same.

I don't understand why it is different. Doesn't Hasselblad just shoot a test chart when they have a new chip and make sure each colour on the test chart displays the colour they want, then bake in the profile? What happened to the 'Natural Colour Solution'?

Ben

Ben

What workflow are you using?  Is it all through Phocus and then using Photoshop?

I have tried the colour calibration tools in Phocus and cannot achieve a sensible result.  I have found however that careful management of the exposure before setting the white balance produces a nice result (to my eyes that is).  I found on my Sony A7Rm2 that it was critical to get the exposure right in camera and in the raw converter before setting the white balance was important.   

I have also found that some additional sharpening may be required with these sensors.

Having said all of that and even if the colours were not quite the same I would happily trade that for the utility of live view.

[bdp]

Hi David,

I use Phocus exclusively.

I have had better results today by creating my own calibration with a Macbeth chart and shooting/processing in Reproduction Mode. Something I've never had to do with previous Hasselblads, but maybe that's what is necessary with this one.

Preliminary results look promising, but I'll have to do further comparisons.

Ben

PS Yes the Live Video is pretty awesome.

[Buddy]

can someone with actual experiences of the H5 and H6 makes a statement about the focus accuracy and focus speed? Is this noticeably better with the new body? and is also True Focus faster? I am asking this, because I have some issues with True Focus in a H5 body especially under non optimal lighting conditions (sometimes True Focus won't snap or just takes "endless" time to do so and my model is almost fallen asleep meanwhile...)
Thanks!

[Hassilistic]

I am asking this, because I have some issues with True Focus in a H5 body especially under non optimal lighting conditions (sometimes True Focus won't snap or just takes "endless" time to do so and my model is almost fallen asleep meanwhile...)

I don't know of any Auto Focus out there that does so under non optimal conditions...!  The trick is to be mindful of your EV limits, set it to one which gives optimal focus function, and use your exposure compensation to control the lighting (brightness) to create whatever dramatic effect you were looking for in the first place.

[Buddy]

I don't know of any Auto Focus out there that does so under non optimal conditions...!  The trick is to be mindful of your EV limits, set it to one which gives optimal focus function, and use your exposure compensation to control the lighting (brightness) to create whatever dramatic effect you were looking for in the first place.

You obviously didn't understand what I am talking or writing about or you don't have a clue of True Focus in actual operation. It has nothing to do with exposure and exposure compensation. What I was saying is that when ambient lighting is not brilliant in a shooting scene with H5D then True Focus acquisition (until True Focus locks focus and confirms with the beep or the special symbol in the viewfinder) is sometimes quite cumbersome and can take endless or at least a few seconds and this is not very good in front of a model holding its pose. When shooting in similar or much worse situations with my Nikon D4s then focus aquisition is seldom a problem.
Exposure in such situation is not the problem, this is set by the the corresponding aperture and shutter speed and the flash system.

[Buddy]

that's why I wish someone chime in here having actual experience with H5D and H6D, not just theoretical internet knowledge

[DBF]

I found my solution for the bad colours of H6 - it´s name is H5D60 and I bought it new

[bdp]

Hi Bab,

I am one owner who commented that I noticed a change in colour compared to my H5D-40 (CCD) in the things I shoot (mostly food). I preferred the colour from the old camera, probably because I was used to it. I did get a response from Hasselblad saying that they found the new chip had better (more accurate) colour than the older backs, however I remarked that more accurate colour didn't necessarily mean more pleasing colour.

There was also some speculation that my old CCD back had the wrong calibration file loaded after a chip change under warranty, so all my files from my old camera may have had a slight red or magenta tint to them.

In the end my solution was to shoot a colour chart with my new H6 and simply save a calibration file that I apply to all my captures. This seems to have brought back the good looking natural colour I was used to. Who knows why, but I'm happy with it now.

Ben

[DBF]

I made a simple Test:
I looked to the Test-Photos (H3DII50 - H6D50C - Phase One 50 MP - Phase One 100MP) with some friends without saying which Photo came from which Camera. They don´t own a good Quality Camera.
All of them found the Pictures of the H3DII50 with 100% - saying this Picture is good and the other three are b*llsh*t.
I tried to set the colors with Photoshop. I was quite satisfied and showed it to my Wife. She said: it looks like a Painting - not like a Photo.
So my Decision was Clear: We want to stay with CCD and I want more than I have now.
It is sad, that I can not have faster Shutter-Speed - but natural colors are ore important to me.
All other extra Features of the H6 are not necessary for me.
I am happy with my new H5D60.

[raffa]

I looked to the Test-Photos (H3DII50 - H6D50C - Phase One 50 MP - Phase One 100MP) with some friends without saying which Photo came from which Camera. They don´t own a good Quality Camera.

could you please share these files?

[DBF]

Sorry No
I have deleted them after Purchas of the new Camera.
The Shop where I go (Calumet in Stuttgart/Germany) was very helpful with borrowing everything I wanted. No cost and have it as long as I want.

[bdp]

Hi Bab,

Yes, all the settings such as the curves etc are carried over from one shot to the next. It's like Capture One's setting 'copy from primary', so Phocus will use the settings from whichever thumbnail you have selected for the next capture. You can't lock these settings into the camera for untethered shooting but it doesn't matter anyway because as soon as you import them into Phocus you can assign whatever settings you like.

LV on the back is great - just one button press or tap on the touchscreen to start it and you can zoom in with a double tap to check focus. One thing I hope is coming via firmware update is the ability to scroll around once zoomed in to 100%. The refresh rate is excellent as is the quality - no blown highlights, nice contrast etc.

Ben

[Dagmar_L]

Yesterday I received my H6D100C, played with it a little - to get use to it, and today - I am after first portrait session.
Using  HC 50-110 lens  on f 8.0 - 75 pictures in 1 hour - every one of them - ideally sharp (using true Focus from about 1,2-1,5 m distance).
Colours are very OK - I do not miss my old H5D40.
Tethered work needs quick upgrade  - using power from USB is a must.
75 shots in 1 hour drained 50% of the battery.

It was mentioned in one of the first posts in this thread - that registering camera online will give additional year of warranty - 36 months in total. Is it true?
I sent once email to Hasselblad  asking about this - and answer was - "ask your local dealer". Dealer doesn't know anything else  - just 24 months warranty.