H5d-40 (with lens) or H4D-60 (no lens)

[Mark24173]

Hi. This is either my first post or my first in a very long time.

I'm a pure amateur photographer (i.e. I don't make any money from photography), and I've found that I like cameras that are a bit different from the usual.

I'm also fortunate enough to live in Tokyo, where there are some majorly impressive used camera stores.

One such had two GAS-inducing models : an H5D-40 with an 80mm 2.8 lens, and an H4D-60 with no lens. The difference in price was around the price of (some) lenses which they had in store (the newer AF ones, not the old Zeiss-made ones).

Neither was remotely what you'd call cheap, but compared with what they must have cost when they were new, they are definitely cheap.

I've always been intrigued by shooting a digital Hasselblad, and I'm getting to the point where such a camera becomes financially feasible - relatively speaking.

My other cameras are also essentially base ISO cameras, so I'm not particularly interested in the latest ISO ten billion cameras.

I'd be interested in hearing which of these you would personally choose and why. All answers will be read with interest and appreciation! Before anyone recommends the XiD, which I am sure is superior in almost every metric, I've played around with one and it didn't do much for me. I'm more interested in a heavy beast of a low-ISO camera which imposes limits on me and tests my shooting technique.

[PhotoKratky]

I love my H4D-60 for the skin tones she produces and her huge sensor.

I hate her for producing error Messages every 300 shots and needing a complete disassembly of the camera to get started again.

And, yes, I'm sure that she is a she...

Can't speak for the H5D-40, never had one of those...

[Conner999]

I waffled as well between the H4-5 models and went with the H5D-40.

The H4D is a solid camera and I loved the idea of the larger sensor, but:

Tethering with the H5D is simplicity itself.

Unlike the H4, you can set it to take power from the battery when tethering, so there's no need to drag along powered FW800 hubs (now harder to find), cables and an AC brick or a 12v battery(s) for the hub now searching for just the right laptop with decent FW/thunderbolt power pass-thru. 

We just plug the cable in via a FW800-Thunderbolt adapter and done. No hiccups and no serious battery drain. Never had a dropped connection.

The H5 just seems like a more refined, smoother-running H4 and there's nothing more infuriating than a camera that has a mind of its own - especially when on a client shoot.

We use it up to ISO400 no issues whatsoever, which surprised us a bit.

[PhotoKratky]

Unlike the H4, you can set it to take power from the battery when tethering, so there's no need to drag along powered FW800 hubs (now harder to find), cables and an AC brick or a 12v battery(s) for the hub now searching for just the right laptop with decent FW/thunderbolt power pass-thru.

Interesting, my H4D-60 is tethered to a MacBook Pro (USB3 to Firewire converter) without the need for an additional battery or hub - only the camera battery is needed (and drained).

[Conner999]

The issue is the amount of power that can be supplied by the laptop.

Older say pre 2012/13 MBPs could do it, but with advent of newer ones, issues arose with lock-ups etc., that was traced back to lower-than-needed power being supplied by the laptop thru the FW cable.  They just couldn't supply the consistent wattage needed for the camera.

Using an AC powered hub or battery-injected cable solved the issue as it supplanted the power being supplied by the laptop.

Assuming your FW800-USB3 converter has a power supply, that unit will be injecting power into the FW800 side, preventing the issue.

Also - What's the make of the FW800-USB3 adapter? Would like to see one as a backup for our units.

[PhotoKratky]

Older say pre 2012/13 MBPs could do it, but with advent of newer ones, issues arose with lock-ups etc., that was traced back to lower-than-needed power being supplied by the laptop thru the FW cable.  They just couldn't supply the consistent wattage needed for the camera.

My MBP is a late 2013 Retina 13" - I do see occassional hiccups, but something that happens once in a four shoot - same thing with my H5D-50c, though. The only tethered Hasselblad camera that was rock steady so far is the X1D 

What's the make of the FW800-USB3 adapter? Would like to see one as a backup for our units.

I'll have to check, it's a while since I bought it...

Edit: I have to apologize, I should check my facts before speaking up: It is a Thunderbolt to Firewire converter, made by Apple themselves:

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD464LL/A/apple-thunderbolt-to-firewire-adapter

Sorry again for the confusion... 

[Conner999]

Interesting on the '13 MBP.  You're a lucky outlier. Most, but not all people, have issues with newer MBPs with FW power.

We use either a 2011 15" MBP or a late 2012 15" Retina and either is rock solid with the H5D-40.

The ONLY issue we've had, which on our last shoot, was a TetherTools FW cable that went wonky and gave both the camera and laptop fits. Have since moved to just the Hassy cables.  Thicker, but more secure lock, so no risk of damage to the body's FW connector.   

No need for apology. We carry around so many $%T^ dongles, its easy to confuse them. We use the FW->Thunderbolt as well.