HCD 4,0-5,6/35-90

[jeff.grant@pobox.com]

Michael, I have an H4D and use the RRS L bracket and the 35-90. It works well. What else do you need?

[Michael H. Cothran]

Michael, I have an H4D and use the RRS L bracket and the 35-90. It works well. What else do you need?

Jeff - In addition to the L bracket, I also purchased a lens support kit. Here is a link to it -

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=CB-YS-QR-Pkg&type=3&eq=&desc=Lens-Support-Pkg%2c-dual-Quick-Release

I mount the H4D equipped with the L bracket to the back end, and use the Y up front to help support the 35-90. It eliminates all that weight pulling on the camera throat. I also use this same support with my Zeiss CF 180 and CF 250 lenses. It prevents the front end from vibrating under the usual conditions. AND...one other option this rig gives me is the ability to slide my whole camera/lens fore & aft on the ballhead. This allows me to be more accurate in placing the nodal point of whatever lens is mounted when I have panos/stitching in mind. If I don't need the Y support, it simply slides off.

It might be considered an "overkill" to some, but I'd rather error with too much support than not enough, especially with the 35-90 and 250 lenses.
With this outfit, including a Gitzo tripod, Kirk ballhead, plus using mirror-up and a cable release, I figure I'm getting maximum performance from my system.

I'll take a picture of the rig, and post it when I get a chance.

[jeff.grant@pobox.com]

That sounds like quite a rig. I'm looking forward to the picture.It never occurred to me that it would be necessary, and I have never heard of anyone having an issue with the lense mount. Of course, you may find that it does improve image quality. Are you planning a with/without test?

[Michael H. Cothran]

As promised in an earlier response to this category, I am posting some images of my H4D/35-90 zoom mounted on a RRS long lens support system. My motive behind this was to help support the weight of the lens so as to not apply undue stress to my camera flange. It keeps the whole rig well balanced on the ball head, plus cuts down on vibrations. I also use it with my Zeiss CF 180 and CF 250 lenses in the same manner. For anyone using the 50-110, 150, 210, and/or the 300, I would encourage you to look into a double mounted system such as this. And yes, I did include the 300, which does come with a tripod collar. But even there, you have both ends of your rig dangling in the air, which is not nearly as secure has having both ends battened down. Just my opinion, of course.

Nonetheless, here are three images, one showing the entire setup with lens hood in place, and the other two showing a closer view without the hood so that you can see the set up more clearly.

[Michael H. Cothran]

Further FYI for images above:
The RRS rig is mounted to a 17 yo Kirk ballhead, and 37 yo Gitzo series 5 Studex tripod. I do plan to update to a RRS TVC-33/BH55 tripod/head later this year.
You'll also note a RRS "L" bracket attached to the camera body for vertical shooting. Vertical shooting is VERY foreign to me. I've shot with a square Hasselblad for 40 years, and even in that time frame, I owned a Mamiya RZ and a 4x5 field camera. None of these ever needed to be rotated. I'm a little skimmish about shooting vertical at the moment!!

[Monty Rakusen]

shooting vertically? I say to clients...do you watch TV or movies in vertical format? Do we see in vertical format? Stop being lazy crop the picture! In a nice way of course!
M

[jeff.grant@pobox.com]

Thanks for the images, Michael. That's an impressive rig.

[Michael H. Cothran]

Got out today for a couple hours of "quality" time with my H4D/35-90. Went to our "Bicentennial Mall," which is a park in downtown Nashville, directly across from the Capitol. The park commemorates our 200 years of statehood. These are carillons, which play songs associated with Tennessee each hour, on the hour. I am really impressed with the IQ I've seen so far, and especially with the Lens correction tool in Phocus.
Specs -
35-90 @ 38mm w/95mm Cir Pol
ISO 100
1/13 sec @ f 16 with +.7 EV
Gitzo tripod with the RRS rig illustrated a few posts above.

My only complaint is the tree branches hanging over. I tried moving to where they did not appear, but the comp was lost.

[davidthescot]

As promised in an earlier response to this category, I am posting some images of my H4D/35-90 zoom mounted on a RRS long lens support system. My motive behind this was to help support the weight of the lens so as to not apply undue stress to my camera flange. It keeps the whole rig well balanced on the ball head, plus cuts down on vibrations. I also use it with my Zeiss CF 180 and CF 250 lenses in the same manner. For anyone using the 50-110, 150, 210, and/or the 300, I would encourage you to look into a double mounted system such as this. And yes, I did include the 300, which does come with a tripod collar. But even there, you have both ends of your rig dangling in the air, which is not nearly as secure has having both ends battened down. Just my opinion, of course.

Nonetheless, here are three images, one showing the entire setup with lens hood in place, and the other two showing a closer view without the hood so that you can see the set up more clearly.

Hi Michael

I have used the same system for the past three years and I am very happy with it.  I even took it on a photo trip to Iceland in my backpack (that was one heavy backpack I can tell you).  I originally used the BH55 but found that ball heads are difficult to adjust with so much weight.  I now use the Arca Swiss Cube modified with a RRS clamp.  That works really well too.

[Michael H. Cothran]

David, thanks for the response. The Arca Swiss Cube is definitely something to consider. How does that compare to something like the Acratech?

[Juan Pascual Garrido]

45 mm. -  f9,5 - 1,3 seconds
I hope you like it! 
www.juanpascual.es

[Michael H. Cothran]

Here's two from this past weekend in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Both taken on the Tennessee side, first one on Little River Road of the Little River, and the second of Middle Prong in the Tremont area. Both between 35-40mm focal length. Processed in Phocus 2.6.5, and finished in CS3. (I do plan to update to CS6 once it's available).

[Michael H. Cothran]

Ok, one more. This one is at the 55mm setting. It is a two-image focus stack, done manually.

[stpf8]

Michael, I just received the RRS lens support rig you've pictured above.  The issue I have is that the clamp knob for the L-plate is located in a very small space between the camera body and the rail (shown very well in your second photo).  It is exceedingly difficult to reach to either tighten or loosen the clamp.  In addition, the front of the lens doesn't clear the "Y" support at the front, even when that support is lowered to its minimum height, and so I can't just pull the camera to the rear to create better access.  I suppose one might take the two-clamp assembly entirely off the rail first, and then remove the clamp(s) from the camera's L-plate; is that what you do?

[Michael H. Cothran]

Michael, I just received the RRS lens support rig you've pictured above.  The issue I have is that the clamp knob for the L-plate is located in a very small space between the camera body and the rail (shown very well in your second photo).  It is exceedingly difficult to reach to either tighten or loosen the clamp.  In addition, the front of the lens doesn't clear the "Y" support at the front, even when that support is lowered to its minimum height, and so I can't just pull the camera to the rear to create better access.  I suppose one might take the two-clamp assembly entirely off the rail first, and then remove the clamp(s) from the camera's L-plate; is that what you do?

Stephen - The clamp immediately beneath my camera is the B2-mAS. This is what the L bracket slides into. If this is what you are referring to, you are correct in that the thumb screw is difficult to reach. Not impossible, but difficult. Since the picture, I did replace this clamp with a B2-40, which has a QR lever instead of the thumb screw. It's a little easier, with less pain on your fingertips.

I'm not sure I'm understanding your second concern about clearance. I'm not having that issue at all, and am not sure why you are. I never have to remove the double clamp from the rail.
As a guess to your issue, this might be why - Always lower the Y before mounting the camera/lens combo. Then, when mounting, I "drop" the L into place rather than "slide" it in. This requires you to open the top clamp further. Insert the back of the L into place, and then drop the front into place, then tighten. Also easier and quicker to do with the B2-40. I also have no problems changing lenses with the body mounted. Once the body is mounted, it usually stays there the rest of my day. I do have to slide the clamps & body fore & aft depending on which lens I'm using, which, besides the 35-90, includes the Zeiss 180 & 250 lenses. The 180 is probably overkill, but I do believe it benefits the 250.

One thing I have learned that you must do is to be sure to center the L in the clamp with the Y support, so that both wheels on the Y are supporting the lens. I oftentimes remove the L and use a universal mount in place of it, which is strickly for horizontal shooting. This mount, being fore & aft in design instead of sideways like the L, always insures proper centering. Note - After shooting square for 40 years, I have yet to become accustom to vertical shooting, so I avoid it as much as possible anyway.

Other than the above, I am pleased with how well this rig works, and how well it supports all my lenses. I plan to get an HC 300 in the future, and will use the same rig with that (taking off the 300's tripod collar). In the field, I get as many comments on my support rig as I do on the H4D!

Let me know how it goes.