Hassel H3D 22MP noise issue at iso 400

[hasselbart]

Hey guys!

Since yesterday, I'm an owner of a H3D 22MP system and basically new in the digital world of Hasselblads digi backs. I shoot some pics at various iso's and noticed some artefacts while working with Lightroom. The iso 50-200 pics are very nice and offers lot digital information in the postpro without going to noisy. I attached one iso 400 pic which I pushed about one stop and noticed some horizontal lines in the face of my son. Are these artefacts typical for iso 400 and for pushing one stop?
As I mentioned, I knew digital noise from my Canon 60D DSLR but starting about 800 and more. But I never noticed these horizontal lines. Does anybody have similar experiences?

Thanks in advance!
Hasselbart   

[Michael H. Cothran]

Not sure that the banding lines are due to higher ISO. I can see two. You may have a couple of dead, or partially dead rows of pixels, which might be better seen at a higher ISO. Just a thought at my end.
But, I do know that my H4D, which is also a CCD sensor, is plain awful @ ISO 400. No banding, but unacceptable noise.

[ChrisL]

Pushing an older CCD back a stop already shot at 400 is never going to be pretty, that is a last resort. (common to both Hasselblad and Phase)
Those lines should be handled by Phocus from the back's calibration file (built into each back individually and loaded with the data into the demosaicing software) they may though have appeared over time since manufacture and the back would benefit from re-calibration. 
Your screen shot shows Lightroom, you should open the file in Hasselblad Phocus (it is free) for the best results from the back, the colour in particular is far superior using Hasselblad software, that is not marketing the program as I say is free, and you may find the lines handled better as well, but not so much the noise I'm afraid.

Those backs are ISO free, they shoot at one speed (base) adjusting the iso on the back just tells the software how much you have underexposed it and gives a screen shot on the back that doesn't look underexposed. Your back will perform best at 50 iso, you can get away with 100iso with a barely detectable (under most circumstances) drop in quality higher is going to be a compromise depending on your quality requirement by 400 you are as you see running out of steam and pushing another stop is plain unusable.

[hasselbart]

Hey!

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience! 

Pushing an older CCD back a stop already shot at 400 is never going to be pretty, that is a last resort. (common to both Hasselblad and Phase) Those lines should be handled by Phocus from the back's calibration file (built into each back individually and loaded with the data into the demosaicing software) they may though have appeared over time since manufacture and the back would benefit from re-calibration. Your screen shot shows Lightroom, you should open the file in Hasselblad Phocus (it is free) for the best results from the back, the colour in particular is far superior using Hasselblad software, that is not marketing the program as I say is free, and you may find the lines handled better as well, but not so much the noise I'm afraid

Phocus is handling in fact those lines a little bit better when pushing one stop. Both lines are visible softer. Maybe Phocus is the better choice for postpro. Can I re-calibrate the back by myself or is a Hassel service point required?

Your back will perform best at 50 iso, you can get away with 100iso with a barely detectable (under most circumstances) drop in quality higher is going to be a compromise depending on your quality requirement by 400 you are as you see running out of steam and pushing another stop is plain unusable.

You're right! The 50 & 100 pics are very good. Pushing is no problem and noise or dead lines are not visible.

[ChrisL]

Hey!

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience! 



Phocus is handling in fact those lines a little bit better when pushing one stop. Both lines are visible softer. Maybe Phocus is the better choice for postpro. Can I re-calibrate the back by myself or is a Hassel service point required?


You're right! The 50 & 100 pics are very good. Pushing is no problem and noise or dead lines are not visible.

I hope I didn't come across as too negative, those early backs, known as "fat pixel" backs now are renowned for their excellent colour.

Re-calibration is a Hasselblad service trip, if you can't see the lines at "normal" exposures It's probably not worth the trip if all else is working well.
Just shoot within the limitations, last advice would be to try a 100mm lens you will find few about for a good reason, it is magic, you can rent in most places to explore what you may need/want.

[hasselbart]

Hey ChrisL!

Its all good. Now I know how the fatpixel works and I like the color so much which. Shooting with 50/100 will be a new experience but definitely worth.

...last advice would be to try a 100mm lens you will find few about for a good reason, it is magic, you can rent in most places to explore what you may need/want.

I have a TC17 converter which I'll try with the 80mm lens. Its a little bit more than 100mm but I'm excited for shooting portraits.

Thanks and regards
Bart